Road Trip in Scotland: An Itinerary For Two Amazing Weeks
Mapping out our Scotland road trip itinerary wasn't easy, especially since Scotland wasn't even the initial destination for our October getaway.
But with a chronic disease come various health issues, and flexible travel planning is essential - more on the specific reasons later.
Why Scotland, then?
When we started researching (note: we only had about 1.5 weeks to plan our trip), Scotland always appeared magical in the fall. Think early morning mist, plenty of red deer to watch, and yellow-reddish trees everywhere.
Granted, it's also wetter than in summer, but the tourist masses usually will have retreated by October (which was also the case when we visited Costa Rica in October).
Plus: Scotland wouldn't be Scotland without the rain, right? So it's all a matter of being prepared for it. And we were.
Here is our personal Scotland road trip itinerary for approximately two weeks!
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Scotland in a nutshell
How To Get To Scotland
In order to be able to do a road trip in Scotland, you have to first get there.
From Europe, it's fairly easy: almost every major airport and airline has direct flights to Scotland.
There are three main airports in Scotland to land on: Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen.
I would suggest to choose Edinburgh for this specific itinerary - it's where we started our specific Scotland road trip itinerary as well.
But if you're coming from North America, most direct flights go to Glasgow.
The best thing to do is check on Skyscanner for different airport and connection options - they let you compare various flight providers at once to get the best deal.
Our Scotland Road Trip Itinerary At a Glance
In order to do a road trip, you will first need a car.
Unless you travel with your own and came by ferry from Europe, you will most likely need to rent a car in Scotland.
We always use Rentalcars as it allows you to directly compare different providers, including reviews from verified users, costs of insurances, extras, conditions for fuelling, etc. It saves a lot of hustle and offers more choice in the type of car when you book beforehand. Absolutely recommended.
Our Scotland road trip itinerary covers all the major highlights in about two weeks. It clearly depends on your preferences, but here's what our personal trip looked like:
We started in Edinburgh as this is one of the main entry ports (with Glasgow) when arriving in Scotland by plane. However, Edinburgh alone is worth an extensive city trip with many sightseeing options in and around it.
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From Edinburgh, we moved north to Fort William, passing by Linlithgow, with Mary Queen of Scots' castle, for some hiking adventures in the magnificent Glencoe Valley.
Castle Stalker (on an island), the Glenfinnan Viaduct (yes, the one from Harry Potter), and the Steall Waterfall (also from Harry Potter) are all found in the area of Fort William.
Next, we drove over the famous bridge to the Isle of Skye with a quick stop at the Eilean Donan Castle, taking in the dramatic scenery with the Old Man of Storr and the Kilt Waterfall.
The island visit was followed by the Glenn Affric National Park and the world-famous Loch Ness, with more beautiful hikes and a bit of Scottish history at the Culloden Battlefield.
Then a lovely bumpy ride with the ferry to reach the Orkney Islands up north for some fascinating Neolithic sites that are unique in the world: Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar.
After being stuck for one additional day on the Orkney islands, thanks to nasty weather, we returned to the main Scottish island to pursue our trip with the Glen Clova and a pretty awesome hike. Then, paying our respects to the recently deceased Queen in Balmoral, we continued towards Stirling.
To round off our fantastic Scotland road trip, we visited all there was to see in and around Stirling and headed back to Edinburgh to prepare for our journey back home.
Traveller's tip:
If you're travelling to Scotland from outside the UK, I would strongly suggest to get an app called Airalo: it allows you to buy a specific e-sim for the country you're visiting, offering cheap data and good service.
It works extremely well and it allowed me to research restaurants and accommodations on the road, without seeing my phone bill explode.
Day 1 - 3: In And Around Edinburgh - Start of a Fantastic Scotland Road Trip Itinerary
The first thing to do when planning a Scotland road trip is to rent a car. Seems obvious.
We booked with Caddy (Europcar partner) and paid about 32 € per day, all insurances included, and 9 € per day for an additional driver. We had a Nissan Juke, which was perfect for our purposes.
We always choose the smallest car option, but only if the driving conditions of the country visited allow it.
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Then we booked our accommodation, called Hillhouse, which was located a bit out of the historic centre of Edinburgh. Why? Because Edinburgh is incredibly expensive, especially if you choose accommodation right in the centre.
But their public transportation system is so good; it doesn't matter where you stay.
We had a bus station right in front of the apartment, and it didn't take more than 15 minutes to get to Edinburgh's Old Town.
Edinburgh's Old Town And The Royal Mile
A rich history with a world-famous castle throning on an extinct volcano, quirky cafes and classy restaurants, exciting museums and creepy stories all over the city: this sums up the "empress of the North" as referred to by sir Walter Scott.
Head straight for the Royal Mile, the vibrant core of the Old Town, and make sure to book your tickets for Edinburgh Castle way ahead of your visit, as it's usually fully booked one to two days in advance.
Edinburgh's famous Royal Mile
Traveller's tip:
The Royal Edinburgh ticket: It's a combi-ticket for a bus tour that allows you to visit all the major attractions in the city without overpaying.
Please don't feel pressured into seeing all of them. Even with only the castle, The Palace of Holyrood House and The Royal Yacht Britannia, the ticket already gives a good return. Plus: you save on the cost of bus trips.
Beware, though, the castle sometimes closes due to strong winds, and while the Royal Ticket states guaranteed entry, they will only give you an ulterior entry date instead of a refund. This was our case, and luckily we planned an extra day at the end of our Scotland road trip itinerary and were finally able to visit it.
Try to do most of the Old Town on foot, get inside the impressive churches, visit the eery graveyards (Greyfriar's is a must!) and - why not - book a spooky nighttime tour.
Greyfriar's Churchyard with some hauntingly interesting tombs...
Get inside one of the numerous ancient pubs, like the Beehive Inn, and take in the quirky streets that inspired J.K. Rowling's Diagonal Alley.
Or, if you need indoor activities (because pouring rain is just part of the deal when visiting Scotland), get inside one of the numerous fantastic museums. Special mention of the incredibly didactic National Museum of Scotland, set inside a building that is a monument to itself. Don't miss the spectacular rooftop view of Edinburgh Castle.
Around Edinburgh
Take the car and drive North to catch one of the viewpoints along the road nearby Newton: the Firth of Forth in all its glory with the elegantly arched bridges.
If you have heard (or are a fan of) the famous Scottish series Outlander on Netflix, stop by Midhope Castle to get a feel of Jamie Fraser's family castle, "Lallybroch". Unfortunately, we didn't get to visit the inside as they were filming season 7, but we got to admire it from the entrance.
Midhope Castle, known to Outlander fans as "Lalllybroch"
A bit further to the North-West, you get to Linlithgow, a quaint little town with a 16th-century feel thanks to well-preserved facades on the High Street. King James V of Scotland and his daughter Mary Stuart (Mary, Queen of Scots) were born in Linlithgow Palace.
After visiting the Palace, get down to the loch for a perfectly romantic view of the castle, its surrounding parc and - naturally - white swans.
Day 3 - 6: Fort William And Glencoe Valley
On Day 3 of our two weeks road trip in Scotland, we continued towards Fort William.
Our specific itinerary took us along the A84, past Stirling - which we came back to visit at the end of the trip, but feel free to add a stop if needed - to Balloch.
Here, we had a nice little lunch by Loch Lomond: great loch views and an interesting boat museum, if you fancy, the Maid of The Loch.
Continuing our northward journey, Sebi suddenly pulled over.
"What are we doing? Do you have to pee?" I asked.
He only said: "Surprise!", something he really likes to do.
We were right by the Falls of Falloch, which he had previously checked out on Google Maps. In fact, the only reason he wanted to see them was because of a picture of a charming copper Cocker Spaniel sitting in front of these falls that had caught his eye.
But it is a nice stop along the way with a short 15 min hike on relatively flat ground (muddy after rainfall!) with a beautiful sight.
The dog is missing but at least I'm here too
The closer we got to Fort William, the more the scenery changed dramatically. We were about to enter the Glencoe Valley - one of the absolute highlights of our Scotland road trip itinerary.
Magnificent Glencoe Valley
Think green-yellowish plains with little hills spread over endless lines, punctuated by lochs and lochans (small lochs). It gets even more dramatic when the heavy rain clouds part, offering a glimpse of blue skies and letting pass a few sunbeams here and there.
Corpach: Our Base For The Next Few Days
Arriving in Fort William, we checked into the Farrow Apartments which we paid about 310 € for three nights. Unfortunately, the place isn't on Booking anymore, so I'm unsure whether they are currently renting out the space—however, a lovely local couple shares their best tips for the region with the guests.
Corpach hasn't that much to offer per se, but it's well located to visit Fort William, the Glencoe Valley, Castle Stalker, the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct and even the Steall Waterfall, all in the space of a few days.
But there is one particular element in Banavie, Corpach's neighbour village: Neptune's Staircase, a staircase lock with an insane amount of eight locks (the longest one in Britain) that enables boats to continue their journey on the Caledonian Canal when water levels change. Quite impressive to see.
Neptune's Staircase in Banavie
The first thing we did after settling in the apartment was to go out for a bite in Fort William's centre. That turned out to be more of a challenge than we thought.
Fort William And The Long Wait For Food
Fort William is a small historic town, trendy and very touristy. There are many restaurants but still not enough to accommodate everyone - even in October!
We ended up queuing outside The Geographer, supposedly one of the best restaurants Fort William offers. They are very well-known for their excellent fish&chips and - indeed - it was delicious.
Attention
Many restaurants and pubs in Scotland don't have the option of booking a table in advance. It's always the rule of "first come, first served". Being early and patient is critical. Those that do allow bookings will guard that table for the whole night, for example.
That was something we didn't quite get. In Belgium and Austria (our respective home countries), when a booking is made for, say, 8 pm and people are showing up at 6 pm, those people can still get the table with a mention to eat and pay within a 2-hour-frame. This makes sense, as it is additional money for the restaurant.
But in Scotland: no. Even if the people don't show up for the next 3 hours, they won't give the table away, even if you promise to eat quickly.
The city of Fort Williams once was a garrison, a fortified military base. Hence not the most charming town. But it's the gathering point for all avid hikers that want to climb up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain. However, "high" is relative in this case, as Ben Nevis culminates at only 1344 m.
Oh, and Fort William is also known as the rainiest town in Scotland, with 300 wet days a year. Be prepared.
Excellent fish&chips at The Geographer in Fort William
Food inspiration |
Glencoe Valley And The Three Sisters
The following day, after a self-made breakfast (lots of little stores staying open quite late in Scotland in general), we headed out in the morning, accompanied by mist, heavy rainfall, and nasty winds, to drive a mere thirty minutes to the spectacular Three Sisters Viewpoint on the A82.
We added a pleasant stop at a viewpoint on Castle Stalker, one of the most photographed castles in Scotland, used in Monty Python and Highlander.
Castle Stalker can be visited.. by boat
In the Glencoe Valley, there are several car parks in the vicinity, but the Three Sisters Car Park is the one we chose to start a pretty challenging hike to what is called the Hidden (or Lost) Valley (Coire Gabhail).
This part of the Glencoe Valley is also sadly famous because of the massacre of 38 clan men, women and children of the MacDonalds of Glencoe in 1692.
To get to the Hidden Valley, you will have to battle quite a steep climb, but only for about 2 km, counting from the parking lot. It's doable in 1h30 though we'd suggest counting a bit more, as the climb can be dangerous. It involves crossing a river flowing down the hill and scrambling over slippery rocks and loose gravel.
The reward is a far-stretching sight of pure nature. We brought a little picnic (remember only to leave footprints!), and from here, we even got to spot a few deer on the adjacent rock wall. Despite the lashing rain and being soaked to the bones, it was a fantastic experience.
Arrived at the Hidden Valley in our insanely sexy outfits
For more information on the Hidden Valley trail, check here.
After our hike, we drove back to Fort William, adding a quick, spontaneous stop at the picturesque Saint John's Churchyard because the weather was perfect for an eery picture of the ancient tombs.
This time we just went to buy some ready-made food as the hike left us needy for a piping hot shower and some quick and easy comfy food.
We called it a day quite early because the next hike was awaiting around the corner.
Eerie Saint John's Churchyard in the mist
Steall Waterfall Hike
Unless you've been living under a rock for the past two decades, you will have seen Harry Potter And The Goblet Of Fire at least once. The gorgeous valley with that impressive waterfall visible in almost any "flying"-shot during the Triwizard Tournament is the Steall Gorge.
Here's another beautiful hike that is easily doable with children: no steep climbs, a fun steel bridge to cross the river (though it can be slippery, be careful!), and a brilliant waterfall at the very end.
Steall Waterfall looks so small from here
However, even though the paths are very well maintained, the hike still involves crossing a few of the usual puddles, streams and muddy areas - bring the appropriate footwear.
If you dare, dip in the pool at the foot of the impressive Steall Falls. We didn't, as there were people behind us, but Sebi still regrets it.
My arms were a bit short for this...
Back in Corpach, we headed out for a takeaway fish&chips (the best in the vicinity, according to our host) from Sammy's Fish'n'Chip Shop.
Glenfinnan Viaduct And The Jacobite (aka Hogwarts Express)
Whenever a picture of the elegantly arched Glenfinnan Viaduct comes up, nestled between mossy green-yellowish hills, surrounded by thick mist, I instantly hear the Harry Potter theme playing.
This particular railway viaduct is one of the major tourist attractions in Scotland, with hundreds of people crowding the place every day. But even without knowing any of the movies (which is nearly impossible), it is still worth a postcard.
Glenfinnan Viaduct was built at the end of the 19th century and connects Fort William to Mallaig, but it's not the bridge that is the main focus of attention - the train riding it is. This retro scarlet red steam train called The Jacobite is what attracts an insane amount of visitors as this is the same train that served as the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter series.
Glenfinnan Viaduct and the famous Jacobite steam train
Getting to the perfect picture spot involves a short hike of about 1 km, starting at the Glenfinnan car park off the North side of the A830. Following that trail leads to an elevated platform that gives the perfect view of the bridge.
The trail goes even further and passes by Loch Shiel (about 4 km in total), but we didn't get that far as we had to get over the sea to Skye.
Quick info - Glenfinnan Viaduct & The Jacobite steam train
This is the timetable for 2023 - check their website for up-to-date information
Opening times Sunday to Friday:
Opening times Saturdays:
*Timings for the Saturday afternoon service have yet to be confirmed
Entry fee: 57 £ / 65 € for a standard adult return ticket
Good to know: for the best view of the Jacobite riding towards you, keep the departures from Fort William in mind.
Day 6 - 8: Isle of Skye
Eilean Donan Castle
Our next major stop on our Scotland road trip itinerary was the famous Isle of Skye, the subject of a song frequently stuck in my head.
It's a 120 km drive from Corpach/Fort William to Kyle, a little town right at the foot of the Skye bridge that takes you to the island.
On the way, we stopped at the beautiful Eilean Donan Castle, which is worth a visit, if only to snap a picture of the gorgeous lake panorama with Loch Duich.
The main structure of the castle dates back to the 13th century, but it was the set of numerous attacks and counter-attacks. It had been the seat of Clan MacRae since the 14th century but got heavily destroyed during the first Jacobite rising in the early 18th century.
Picture-perfect Eilean Donan Castle
1912 Lt. Col. John MacRae-Gilstrap bought the ruin and restored it to his taste. Visiting the castle won't take you back to the Middle Ages, but it offers a window into life in Scotland in the 20th century.
For the Skye part of our Scotland road trip itinerary, we found this en-suite room with an excellent shower in Kyle of Lochalsh.
We checked out a few other listings on the island, but their prices are much higher than on the other side of the bridge (it's still about 100 € a night). You do not need to stay on the Isle of Skye to visit it.
Over The Sea To Skye
Skye is the biggest island of the Inner Hebrides in the West of Scotland and had been in Norwegian hands until the 13th century.
It is known for enabling Bonnie Prince Charles to escape after the terrible defeat during the final Jacobite uprising in Culloden - hence the Skye Boat Song that figures on every Scottish playlist.
While you could spend your time on the island hiking, it's also enjoyable to explore by car. Just always keep an eye on the "passing places" as roads are pretty narrow.
Most of the main highlights can be found on the Trotternish peninsula, where viewpoints all along the A855 (East coast) when driving North from Portree are well-indicated and easily accessible by car and on foot.
They include the Old Man of Storr, a 48 m stone pinnacle visible from considerable distances. Following the same road, the double An Leth-Allt falls await and even further, the massive Kilt Rock with the Mealt Falls and their free drop of 55 m straight into the sea below.
Beautiful Isle of Skye with the Old Man of Storr in the back (right)
Finally, the road ends in the beautiful Staffin Bay, where palaeontology enthusiasts can marvel at dinosaur footprints (plus the adjacent Staffin Dinosaur Museum).
To dive deeper into the island's particular history, the Skye Museum of Island Life in Kilmuir offers a jump back to the 18th and 19th centuries on Skye with traditional houses and Flora MacDonald's tomb - the one that helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape by disguising him as an Irish lady.
Impressive Kilt Waterfall pouring down
The Isle of Skye is also the most visited island of the Inner Hebrides, which means that getting a table in a restaurant is sometimes an impossible task. We ended up ordering take-away pizza and weren't even travelling during the high season.
This also means you must book your accommodation fairly in advance if visiting during the high season. Check out the listings below :
Attention:
June to September is midges-season (especially in August) = annoying little mosquitoes that travel in packs and are very hungry
Skye's South West
From Merkadale to Glenbrittle, a gorgeous but narrow road leads through green valleys to some of the island's most notable elements: the eery Cuillins Hills, the magnificent Fairy Pools and the lovely Glenbrittle beach. Hiking this part of Skye is most recommended.
Beautiful landscapes on the Isle of Skye
The Cuillins Hills, also known as Black Cuillins, form the most spectacular view of Skye: dark spiny crests and sharp peaks throning above the sea make for a dramatic yet majestic scene.
Fun fact
In 2000, John MacLeod needed money to repair his castle's roof and tried to sell "his mountains" for 10 million pounds, claiming that he had possession rights since the 16th century.
He didn't find a buyer.
Studies are currently going on to protect this particular corner of the Isle of Skye by turning Cuillins Hills into a natural park.
Misty Cuillins Hills seen from Elgol
Traveller's tip:
The best view of Cuillins Hill can be found from Elgol or Glenbrittle
Still between Merkadale and Glenbrittle, at the foot of Cuillins Hills, lie the famous Fairy Pools: a suite of little cascades streaming into basins of icy blue water.
Sleat Peninsula or "The Garden Of Skye"
The second name says it all: Sleat is the greenest, more "exotic" corner of the Isle of Skye, in the very South of the island.
The second strongest Gaelic-speaking area of Skye after Trotternish, Sleat is also home to the clan MacDonald, one of Skye's most powerful and influential families. Head to Armadale for an extensive history lesson on the family at the Clan MacDonald Centre and the Museum of the Isles.
If you only do one hike on Skye, let it be the one leading to the Point of Sleat (Rubha Shlèite). Leave the car at the tiny car park in Aird of Sleat and hike the 3.2 km (a little more than 1 hour) to get to a magical beach with turquoise water giving off a strange Caribbean vibe when the sun illuminates the bay.
Magnificent views during or hike to the Point of Sleat
Though we had the always present rain (visiting Scotland in October, you do expect this), there were these moments where the sun pierced through and unveiled breathtaking views (and rainbows! So many rainbows!) on Skye's southernmost point marked by a white lighthouse in the distance.
Traveller's tip:
Bring proper hiking shoes, as this trail gets extremely muddy when it rains
Day 8 - 9: Loch Ness And Glen Affric
Off we went to our next stop on our Scotland road trip itinerary, and I have to make a special mention of Farquhar, our host at the Seilebost B&B: the cutest, friendliest Scot that goes out of his way to accommodate guests.
Farquhar's B&B is located in Lewiston, near Drumnadrochit, which is a perfect base to explore the surroundings of Inverness.
There is a restaurant down the road from the B&B called The Loch Ness Inn with excellent food and lovely staff - we went there twice in a row; that's how good it was. Also, there weren't many other options in the area. Great food, nonetheless!
Happy Sebi in Farquhar's home Seilebost B&B
(In)Famous Loch Ness
This famous lake, with a length of 35 km, doesn't need much introduction. Still, it is interesting to note that Loch Ness is connected with three other Lochs to the sea through the impressive Caledonian Canal built in the early 19th century. The Canal joins Scotland's east (Inverness) and west coast (Corpach).
Though initially conceived for bigger boats, it wasn't a commercial success as the sails had been replaced by steam once the Canal was completed, and these freighters were far too big.
Picturesque park in Fort Augustus next to the Loch Ness
Need I mention Nessie? Ah well, the fact that Loch Ness has a depth of 230 m in some places (that's deeper than the North Sea!) certainly sparked the imagination of numerous visitors, especially in the 1930s (though the legend dates back to the 6th century when some Saint battled a monster in the river Ness).
The famous "surgeon's photograph" from 1934 is now known to have been a hoax, orchestrated by a few funny locals getting revenge at the Daily Mail by selling a picture of a submarine toy.
Nevertheless, the Scots enjoy feeding tourists' "monster frenzy" by offering all kinds of souvenirs, lake cruises with sonar, "monster spotting tours", etc.
If you're interested, the cruises leave at Fort Augustus and pass by picturesque Urquhart Castle.
Urquhart Castle
Urquhart Castle was built in the 13th century but didn't survive the numerous Jacobite risings. In ruins for several generations, the castle was finally restored in 2000 (in a good way, as they didn't try to rebuild something that didn't exist anymore).
The setting is magnificent, with a tower overlooking the famous Loch Ness. Just ignore the bright green clean-cut grass between the visitor's centre and the castle.
Urquhart Castle with the famous Loch Ness in the back
That visitor's centre is more of a tourist boutique than a museum. But a 10 min introduction video ends with a unique effect once the curtains on the broad windows draw open at the end. It's actually really cool.
Traveller's tip:
If castles are your thing, don't hesitate to get the Explorer Pass:
For 35 £ or 39,60 €, you get access to many historic sites in Scotland.
Considering the relatively high entry fees for each, you only need to visit, say, 3 or 4 castles, and it already pays off. Check out the Explorer Pass website to see what is included and what isn't.
A quick stop to visit Beauly Priory with its kind of romantic old graveyard and some illustrious figures, and it was time to get some food at the Loch Ness Inn that I previously mentioned.
Then a good night's sleep at our cute B&B to be ready for the next day, which would be an active one again.
Glen Affric And The Red Deer
Farquhar went out of his way to serve breakfast. He gave us a choice between Scottish and Continental. We chose the latter as I wasn't feeling greasy meats (haggis and pudding) in the early morning...
Off we went to check out what Glen Affric had to offer. After all, it is considered a paradise for hikers and nature lovers.
A national nature reserve since 2002, there is a vast network of hiking trails with different difficulty levels.
The starting point is near Cannich and Tomich, the Glen Affric Road Parking. From here, you can choose one of the picturesque "Forest Walks of Glen Affric", depending on your level or mood that day.
One of them is particularly interesting in October as you can get quite close to red deer during the day by following their rutting call. Unfortunately, the trail was closed due to woodwork when we went but we still managed to hear and see them in the distance.
We chose to combine a few trails as they were all relatively short, and we had a lot of time.
Glen Affric's beautiful nature
We started with the red-marked Dog Falls Trails, about 3.2 km along the river and little waterfalls, and in the middle of the trail, we branched off to follow the yellow Coire Loch Trail. This one led through a patchwork forest to a little lochan that felt like you were far away from any civilisation. That was another 4.5 km and a little bit more strenuous.
We finished by following the Viewpoint Trail's white marks, which lead to ... a viewpoint. But a view that was absolutely worth the detour and our picnic spot for the day. It's another 2.9 km to get there.
Gorgeous viewpoint in Glen Affric nature reserve
During the hike, we even solved a "mystery murder" with animals of the forest, as there were little cards with clues, suspects and tips at each trail marker.
Not sure whether this is there all year round, but it's especially interesting for the little ones as you learn a great deal about the different tracks, looks and behaviours of the local fauna.
After a nature and oxygen-filled day, we returned to The Loch Ness Inn for another delicious Scottish meal and went to bed early. The following days were going to be even more eventful.
Day 9 - 11: Orkney Islands
Culloden Moor And The Tragic End Of The Jacobite Rebellion
The day started with a visit to the sadly famous Culloden Battlefield.
Honestly, we weren't aware of that dramatic part of Scotland's history if it weren't for the Outlander series. But hey, it's never too late to learn.
If you aren't familiar with the Jacobite rebellion, head here to read a bit of context and come back to this post.
Though there isn't much to see on the battlefield except for a big yellowish grass patch with red and blue flags marking the position of the "English" (though there were many foreigners and even loyal Scotsmen on that side, too) and the Jacobites, respectively.
In one hour, it was all over, and more than 1500 Jacobites lost their lives very cruelly.
Red flags spotted on the right - the calm on Culloden Battlefield is mesmerising
The museum next to the field is extensive and recounts the events in a straightforward but very didactic way. A guided field visit is highly recommended, and there are also thematic visits inside the museum. Very interesting indeed.
Don't miss the immersive experience of the battle in a separate room of the museum; it gave me goosebumps.
A Ferry Ride Up North
From here, it was time to head up North, but we had to do something that scares me every time: getting over the water.
You should know I am very prone to seasickness, and there isn't a thing that I haven't tried yet. But more on that later.
Getting to the Orkney Islands is only possible by ferry (or by plane, but that's incredibly expensive), and there are several routes. The most practical one is by embarking either in Aberdeen or Scrabster.
We chose to do the Scrabster - Stromness route with Northlink Ferries as we wanted to see the Old Man of Hoy, a famous cliff only visible on this trajectory. It's also a lot faster than the route from Aberdeen.
A third possibility is to embark in John O' Groats, but since we were travelling by car, that wasn't an option.
With Northlink ferries, we paid about 200 € for a return ticket for two with the car.
Our ferry was scheduled for 6 pm, so we didn't get to see the Old Man of Hoy on the way up as it was already dark.
Kirkwall, Capital City Of Orkney
We arrived in Kirkwall, the capital (and biggest) city of Orkney, later in the evening and checked into our B&B for a good night of sleep.
Kirkwall is located on Mainland, the biggest island of the archipelago. About 75 % of Orkney's population lives on Mainland. It's also where you want to be to explore all the fascinating ancient sites, most of them protected by UNESCO.
With roughly 10 000 residents, Kirkwall is relatively small but all the more significant. Founded at the beginning of the 11th century, Kirkwall (from Kirkjuvágr in Norse, meaning "Church Bay") breathes Scandinavian history.
Highlights to visit are the impressive red brick St Magnus Cathedral from the 12th century, filled with rich Scandinavian elements and some very particular tombs. The name comes from Magnus, (Viking) Earl of Orkney, whose remains have been incorporated into one of the main pillars by his nephew.
Mighty St Magnus cathedral
Don't miss the 360-degree view from the bell tower.
Other fascinating buildings include the ruins of the Earl's Palace, built in the early 17th century by a local tyrant, and the Bishop's Palace from the 12th century. There is a combined ticket for both.
Fun fact
The Ba' Game is a kind of medieval football game played all over Scotland but especially in Kirkwall every year on Christmas and New Year's, opposing the Uppies (upper Kirkwall) and Doonies (lower Kirkwall).
The goal is to bring a single leather ball to the other side. No rules, and no time limit. Everything, literally everything, is allowed.
West Of Mainland: Neolithic Treasures
This is what we came for: Orkney's absolutely magnificent richness of Neolithic (New Stone Age) sites. I am an archaeologist, after all and these sites had been on my list for a while now.
More archaeology | Inside of Petra: A Complete Guide To The Lost City
Here's an overview of the best sites in a row: Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness:
Skara Brae And Skaill House
Starting at Skara Brae, one of the oldest and the best preserved Neolithic villages on the Atlantic Façade, this site is one of the most marvellous things we visited on our Scotland road trip itinerary.
Built around 3000 BC (can you even grasp what this means?), Skara Brae is a wonderful and illustrative example of what daily life on the island was like during the New Stone Age.
Fascinating Skara Brae
The hypothetical reconstruction of one of the housings and the museum are very well-thought-out.
Right next to Skara Brae, don't miss Skaill House - it's included in the Skara Brae ticket anyway. Orkney's "most haunted house" from 1620 belongs to the family Graham, one of them being the discoverer of Skara Brae in 1850.
Still very lively as the family's last descendant resided here until her death in 1991.
Potentially haunted Skaill House
Good to know:
Skara Brae and Skaill House are also included in the formerly cited Explorer Pass!
Stones of Stenness And The Ring Of Brodgar
Erected in the same time frame as Skara Brae, the Stones of Stenness are a Neolithic circle (cromlech) with only four surviving stone pillars of initially 11. The rest had been blown up with dynamite because the area owner in the 1850s didn't like them much.
They are still very impressive thanks to their height (up to 5.90 m). There was probably a hearth in its midst for ceremonial purposes.
Sebi and the impressive Stones of Stenness
Continuing North, you pass by the Ness of Brodgar, a still active excavation site of a cultural complex built in stone and occupied between 3500 and 2400 BC.
Then comes the Ring of Brodgar, even more impressive than Stenness, as 20 of the initially 60 massive stones (megaliths) are still upright, positioned in a vast circle of 103 m in diameter.
These date back to 2600-2500 BC and offer an impressive sight on the surrounding lochs.
The mystic Ring of Brodgar
Good to know:
All of these sites are free to visit; no ticket is needed.
A Missed Ferry...
Back in Kirkwall, after an incredibly fascinating morning, we were supposed to head back to Stromness in the afternoon the next day. But we got the news that our ferry was cancelled due to bad weather conditions.
You must know that the sea between Scotland and Orkney isn't a calm, flat water mass anyway: it's where the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea meet. So if they say it's "rough", then you know that no kind of boat can survive the crossing.
So we called our host to see if we could add a night. We could, but we had to change apartments; at least we had a place to stay.
Knowing we had more time on the island, we ended the day by spoiling ourselves with a delicious meal at The Kirkwall Hotel.
On of the best salmons I ever had at The Kirkwall Hotel
The next day - the additional one - we drove around from islet to islet, actually looking for seals we ultimately didn't find. Most islets are connected by little bridges that often get submerged when the sea is rough. Happens a lot, of course.
We drove by Scapa Flow Bay, which is famous for numerous shipwrecks from WWI that had been purposedly sunk here (a paradise for divers in the summer), headed to the windiest place I've ever experienced, and visited a quirky little "Italian Chapel" on the way back to Kirkwall.
We also wanted to visit the Tomb of the Eagles, a Neolithic grave, but it was closed.
The windiest spot on Orkney - almost blew us away
Before leaving this gorgeous island, we stopped by Sheila Fleet's The Kirk Gallery & Café to marvel at her brilliant jewellery.
Sheila is a designer born and raised on Orkney, and the islands are her primary inspiration source, turning natural elements and particularities of her home island into beautiful jewellery. I got a pair of lovely earrings based on the specific stone used on the roofs of Orkney houses for my mum and she loved them.
Back To Stromness With a Few Bumps
Thanks to the afternoon ferry being cancelled and the new one leaving at 6 am - still dark - we missed the Old Man of Hoy both times.
To make matters worse, the winds hadn't exactly calmed down that much: I'm talking about huge waves crashing on the boat, constantly rocking it up and down at least 10 meters.
Being prone to seasickness, this was a descent into hell for me. Not even my miraculous wonder glasses to prevent seasickness could save me.
Luckily the ordeal didn't go on for long; about 1h30 later, we were back on firm land.
However, it took a few hours more for me to recover fully. Thank God for Ginger Ale.
Gorgeous viewpoints between Inverness and Balmoral
Day 11 - 13: Glen Clova And The Passing Of The Queen
The Royal Residence in Scotland: Balmoral Castle
Back on land, we drove past beautiful viewpoints until reaching Balmoral Castle, the royal residence in Aberdeenshire.
Built in 1856 by Queen Victoria on the grounds of a previous castle that proved too small, Balmoral is the permanent residence of the Royal Family when they are visiting Scotland.
Mighty Balmoral Castle, Queen Elisabeth's final resting place
It's also here that Queen Elisabeth passed away in 2022. While she had already been transferred back to London when we arrived, the castle was closed to the public.
However, the park and Royal Gardens were free to visit. This was a gesture of King Charles III to allow guests to pay their respects to his deceased mother.
Still a gorgeous home, that Balmoral Castle
Speaking of which, we learned through the radio that Charles was actually visiting the town we had just driven through earlier that day, and we missed him by just a couple of hours.
Anyway.
The standard entry fee for Balmoral Castle would be 15 £, almost 17 €, for a visit to the park, gardens and one (!) hideous room. Not sure we would have paid that.
We did a bit of shopping (still fascinated by the history of that powerful family, despite everything) for souvenirs and drove down to our next base for a few days, a little town called Forfar.
Glen Clova And The Corrie Fee
Glen Clova is yet another National Nature Reserve perfect for intensive hiking: endless lush green valleys surrounded by mysterious, foggy mountains.
Here again, we were practically alone during the whole hike, if you don't count the dozens and dozens of wild pheasants jumping around every time we got nearer.
Glen Clova nature reserve
We chose the Corrie Fee Trail, a moderate round trip of 3.5 km that meanders in a beautiful natural amphitheatre formed by the surrounding hills. If you feel like it, add another hour and climb past the waterfall up until reaching the Cairngorm Plateau for some spectacular views (and quite a strong wind).
Pictures don't do it justice, that view from the Cairngorm Plateau was incredible
After yet another nature-filled day, we moved closer to Edinburgh again, as it was almost time to head home after an amazing two weeks in Scotland.
Almost.
Day 13 - 14: Stirling, The Clasp Between Highlands And Lowlands
Glamis Castle And Its Haunted Rooms
I know. Nearly every major castle in Scotland upholds the reputation of being the most haunted one.
But truth be told, when one enters the magnificent Glamis Castle with all the little passages and secret rooms, it is impossible to keep the imagination at bay.
We arrived quite early in the morning, driving through a seemingly unending alley roughly two minutes before the castle was actually opening. As most visitors arrived by bus around an hour later, we were practically alone the whole visit.
Our favourite castle so far: Glamis Castle
Glamis Castle is one of the most visited castles in Scotland. It was first a royal hunting residence but has belongedonged to the counts of Strathmore and Kinghever since the 14th century. Incidentally, members of this same family still inhabit a private (and closed-off) wing of the castle.
Glamis is also where Queen Mum grew up, and pictures of her as a young lady and with other members of the Royal Family are found nearly everywhere.
The visit is a very interesting one as plenty of rooms are open to the public, amongst which the Queen Mum's favourite salon, a chapel including the ghost of Lady Janet who can be seen praying here sometimes, some exquisite bedrooms (one, again, with a spirit, a little boy in the corner), and a luxurious Billiard room.
One of the many rooms in Glamis Castle
The difference with other castles we visited was that this one was and still is inhabited by a family very close to the Royals. Nothing feels fake, and it's utterly fascinating to see that much personality transpiring in these walls.
It's not cheap, 19 £ / 21,50 € is quite some money, but it is worth it in this case. Take the audio guide for all the details on the numerous Ghosts of Glamis and their stories.
Doune Castle - Monty Python And Castle Leoch
Here's yet another castle but one we only visited because it was also included in the previously mentioned Explorer Pass (really worth the money!). Otherwise it's 9 £ / 10 €.
But also a little bit because Doune Castle served as the setting for the iconic Monty Python And The Holy Grail. The voice of the audio guide leading through the 14th-century ruin is actually Terry Jones, one of the legendary Monty Python's members.
Doune Castle in all its glory
More recently, Doune Castle was also the set of Outlander's Castle Leoch, and yes, Sam Heughan, aka Jamie Fraser, also makes an appearance on the audio guide.
The interiors are pretty empty, but the massive walls and the very ludic comments and sound effects on the audio guide help to understand the purpose of every chamber.
If you're a fan of either Monty Python or Outlander: the (quite extensive) souvenir shop sells coconuts, and plenty of Outlander-inspired jewellery and tartans.
Stirling Castle And The Problem Of Over-Restoration
Before exploring the surroundings of Stirling (we visited Doune Castle on the way as it was a perfect stop on our Scotland road trip itinerary), we checked into the most quirky hotel in Thornhill, the Lion and Unicorn Hotel.
The interior of this 17th-century inn feels more like a tavern than a hotel, but has an awful lot of charm.
It's an institution, really.
Enjoying a dinner by the fireplace at the Lion and Unicorn Hotel
The only downside is that on weekends, it's also THE hangout for the locals, and old buildings like this one aren't very soundproof. We paid about 112 € per night but added dinner by the fireplace as it came highly recommended.
Location-wise it's perfect for visiting Stirling and its surroundings.
Stirling Castle is one of the most impressive castles in Scotland. Perched on top of a rock overlooking the valley and initially built in the 12th century, its rich history is visible in the architectural structure.
The mix of different styles from various eras, with extraordinary sculptural details, confers to the castle a sense of grandeur that can't be found anywhere else.
My favourite facade at Stirling Castle - that's authentic
While a visit to Stirling Castle is certainly utmost entertaining, to the archaeologist that I am, it always feels a bit like a medieval Disneyland.
This wasn't my first visit; the feeling from a few years ago was the same. But even Sebi, who isn't an archaeologist or history fanatic, felt it was too much.
Don't skip it, if only to really know the heart of Scotland's history as so many important events took place here, but don't believe everything you see. It's pretty, splendid and tries to be authentic but it isn't.
Stirling's Old Town
Walking through Stirling's historic centre is fantastic thanks to many notable and fascinating buildings.
Starting with Argyll's Lodging, a 17th-century residence with a gorgeous courtyard, the walk takes you down past the ruins of Mar's Wark, a Renaissance townhouse built for the keeper of Stirling Castle.
Stirling's picturesque cobblestone streets in Old Town
Then there is the Church of the Holy Rude, from the 15th century (those oak roof beams!), where several coronations took place, and right across: the Cowane's Hospital, a 17th-century almshouse.
Don't miss strolling around Broad, Saint John and Bow Street, as there are again, 17th-century buildings to admire.
The beautiful Church of the Holy Rude
As we had parked our car on the Castle esplanade and you pay for the whole day, we went back up at the end of our walk for a warming hot chocolate in a lovely 18th-century pub called The Portcullis. Probably very crowded during the high season, though.
Don't hesitate to walk back to the castle by traversing the interesting cemetery.
Good to know:
Stirling Castle is also included in the Explorer Pass (I told you it's worth it!). Otherwise, it's 16 £ or 18 €
Blackness & Craigmillar Castle
We kind of deliberately left out the National Wallace Monument and Stirling Bridge.
While the latter is especially highly famous thanks to William Wallace and his triumph over the English during the Battle Of Stirling Bridge in 1297, there isn't that much to see.
We drove a bit further and visited yet another castle (I know, it's getting repetitive) instead, as this one was - oh surprise - included in our Explorer Pass as well!
A very massive building with some walls dipping into the Firth of Forth with three towers amongst which the 14th-century donjon, Blackness Castle has also been the set of various notable movies such as Macbeth, with the late (but extraordinaire) Sean Connery, or more recently Mary Queen of Scots.
The massive donjon of Blackness Castle
Outlander aficionados will feel a bit queasy as this castle served as the infamous Fort William where Jamie got his first lashes...
As always, there are clear information panels explaining the history and functioning of the castle in an interesting way.
To stay in the Outlander mood, we stopped by Craigmillar Castle (yes, included in the Explorer Pass), one of Scotland's best-preserved medieval castles. This 15th-century building hasn't been inhabited since the mid-1800s. All that is left are the walls, but with several details that aren't to be found in so many other ruins.
Craigmillar once was a luxurious castle with rooms offering private latrines and warming fireplaces each. Mary Stuart stayed here after the assassination of her secretary Rizzio by her then-husband Lord Darnley at the Holyrood Palace (in Edinburgh).
Lovely view of the Holyrood Hills and Edinburgh from the upper walls.
Up the walls of Craigmillar Castle
Scotland Road Trip Itinerary For Two Weeks: Conclusion
If two weeks in Scotland doesn't seem to be enough (totally get it!), you can easily add one or two days for each major stop.
Also: planning more time to reach the different stops is a good idea as the landscapes you encounter along the way are dramatically gorgeous. Having enough time to just stop and admire the views is certainly a great idea.
Gorgeous landscape at Lochan na h-Achlaise, between Clifton and Glencoe
What we didn't do because time wouldn't permit it, were the Outer Hebrides and especially the Lewis and Harris islands with their dramatic landscape and turquoise waters.
We also skipped Glasgow as we wanted to come back for an extensive city-trip.
But our Scotland road trip itinerary is only a suggestion anyway, feel free to adapt it to your liking - I get that not everyone is as castle-enthusiastic as I am 🙂
Read also | 10 Days in Costa Rica Itinerary For Epic Trips
All in all, Scotland was one of our best trips yet!
And not just because those Highland cows are too darn cute...
Going to leave this here...
I hope this post still serves you well and don't hesitate to write if you need help planning!
Thanks for reading and don't hesitate to comment, pin and share this post!
As ever
xx
Cyn
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