Road Trip in Croatia: Driving Down The Adriatic Coast
September 15, 2020/
Ever wanted to do a road trip in Croatia?
Cool! Us too! Well actually... we had a totally different travel-plan in mind.
If you read about our preparation for a road trip through Europe, you know that we were supposed to be on a world-trip since April with destinations like Africa, Latin America and South East Asia.
Instead, we decided to pack the car with whatever we need and cruise through Europe.
Starting with an Austria road trip, we crossed the borders to beautiful Slovenia (see our 'Slovenia road trip'-post) before finally reaching Croatia.
For our road trip in Croatia, our itinerary started up north in Pula (check out the things to do in Pula) and went aaalll the way down along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik, with a little intermezzo in the Plitvice National Park, this being one of the day-trips from Split we recommend.
Whether you plan 10 days or 2 weeks in Croatia, the itinerary can still be the same. The more time, the better - sure. But the distances are generally easy to manage: that's one of the very cool things about Croatia, a country with a perfect road system.
It makes driving in Croatia super easy!
Here are our highlights from our road trip in Croatia, all in a very handy itinerary!
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Road trip in Croatia: introducing the country
Croatia in a nutshell
The Republic of Croatia is a country in Southeast Europe, bordering Slovenia, Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro
Croatia's current territory has been occupied by men since the prehistory, having known Greek and Roman colonists before becoming an independent kingdom in the 9th century
Then came different rulers, among which the Habsbourg, until it got incorporated into Yugoslavia in 1918
The Croatian War of Independence was fought from 1991-1995 following their declaration of independence on June 25th
Traces of this war are still visible in certain parts of the country (read on for the details)
Croatian is the official language but there are several minority languages being used officially in localities where most of the inhabitants are part of a minority (Italian being one of them)
Our road trip itinerary in Croatia: short version
Croatia itinerary: start in Istria
Driving down from Piran, the end of our Slovenia road trip, our first 'base' was in Medulin, a little town in the southernmost tip of the Istrian peninsula.
From here, we visited the impressive city of Pula (check out the things to do in Pula) with its numerous Roman vestiges and the picturesque coastal town Rovinj.
Driving down the Croatian Adria Magistrale
Fom there, we stopped by Rijeka (a city we had never heard of before) before getting to our next base in Otocac where we had the cutest AirBnB (read on!). This was our starting point to get to the Plitvice National Park, one of our day-trips from Split, which was amazing!
Next, we drove to Zadar while checking out a totally unplanned spot we discovered on the road: the Zrmanja Canyon (again: read on to find out what this has got to do with teepees).
From Zadar, we did a day-trip to the island Pag to know its pretty interesting history!
Two of the most beautiful cities in Croatia
Another big stop was the well-known city of Split that immediately caught our hearts. Split is an ideal base as there are a few day-trips from Split easily doable from here like Trogir or the incredibly beautiful island Hvar.
To finish this road trip through Croatia in style, we spent a few days in the 'Adriatic Pearl' Dubrovnik before taking the ferry to Italy (check out the Sassi di Matera we visited, not far from the arrival point!) and then to Greece, where we visited the awe-inspiring Meteora Monasteries.
Now let me break this down for you so you'll really know how to plan your road trip in Croatia!
Pula: the starting point of our Croatian road trip
Pula in a nutshell
Pula is the largest city on Istria county, the largest part of Istria belonging to Croatia
Their main industries are fishing, wine making, ship building and - of course - tourism
The latter is possible thanks to several well preserved Roman and medieval vestiges
Ever since the Roman times, Pula was the administrative centre of Istria, before this role went to Pazin in 1991
Where to stay?
We booked the Villa Orange, a charming apartment with a beautiful little balcony which cost about 50 € (60 US$) per night (for two) in Medulin.
That little town was a good base to explore Pula and Rovinj, both in terms of distance and budget.
What to do?
As all the main highlights of Pula are pretty much at walking distance from each other, the best thing to do when travelling by car is to park in the big parking lot of the amphitheatre and visit the sights from here.
They will also give you a handy guide with all the top things to do or visit in Pula on a map!
Rovinj is not very big and has narrow streets so it can get very busy during the summer months.
The good thing though is that the old town is prohibited to cars. Strolling through the streets is very chill.
Just take your time to walk around the city and discover impressive buildings like the baroque church of St Euphemia, built on the location of a previous Venetian church in the 18th century.
You can also climb up the symbol of the city, the bell tower of the 17th century, strongly resembling the Campanile in Venice and marking the highest point of what used to be an island.
Rijeka: an unexpected gem on our road trip in Croatia
Leaving the Istrian peninsula behind, our Croatian road trip led us past Veprinac and through Rijeka.
Veprinac is this tiny town on a hill with a rich history and magnificent view on Rijeka (see pictures).
Rijeka, on the other hand, basically forms the starting point of the famous 'Adria Magistrale', the highway 65 driving along the coast all the way down to Montenegro.
Views from Veprinac
The majestic Adriatic Sea
Rijeka in a nutshell
Rijeka is the principal seaport and the third-largest city in Croatia and is located in the Kvarner Bay
Together with Galway in Ireland, it was named European Capital of Culture 2020
The territory in and around Rijeka has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic, having a very strategic position with hills near the sea
Celtic and Illyrian tribes already built forteress-like structures on the hills before the Romans took over
The Croatians came in the 8th century and the city was strategically very important for Charlemagne
Of course, the Habsbourg and the Italians had a say in Rijeka's history as well.
Although 80% of the residents were Italians by the end of WWII, the city was ceded to Yugoslavia and 300.000 Italians got deported
Italian is still spoken but only amongst the older generations
There's not so much to see or do in Rijeka but it does have a nice pedestrian zone with lots of shops haha.
If you do a stop-over like we did, make sure you climb up to the castle Trsat. Be prepared for steep stairs, though!
Trsat Castle is said to be built on the location of an ancient Illyrian and Roman fortress. Parts of the actual fortress date back to the 13th century but it was heavily renovated during the 19th century.
Nowadays, you'll find an expensive restaurant/lounge in its courtyard.
On charcoal grilled fish with Swiss chard at Trsatika
After our stop in Rijeka, we interrupted our journey along the Croatian coast for a detour inland.
Plitvice National Park: Nature at its best
Plitvice National Park in a nutshell
A natural park of almost 300 km2
16 natural lakes (all interconnected) and countless waterfalls and forests
4 hiking trails with 7 different routes
2 entrances: upper and lower lakes
Entrance fee: 26 € or 30,60 US$ (July 2020; it used to be 34 € or 40 US$ in non-Covid times)
Parking fee: approx. 10,60 € (12,50 US$) for the whole day
Where to stay?
To visit one of Croatia's most famous places, we booked the cutest little AirBnB in Otočac, a little town that one might say is somewhere 'in the middle of nowhere'.
The town was actually a fortress with quite some importance during the rule of the Habsbourg in the 17th century.
Nowadays, it's more a good base-camp for visiting the Plitvice National Park.
Head over to our post about day-trips from Split for all the details on when and how to visit the Plitvice Lakes - including the best trail for the most amazing views!
Pristine water at Plitvice National Park
Incredible waterfalls
Remnants of a terrible war...
After visiting the lakes, we drove back to Otočac through the 'hinterland'. We didn't plan this but the gps just sent us that way.
We drove through forests with warning tape and signs indicating mine fields, houses and road signs full of bullet holes.
Driving through this scenery, it hit us that this country had been at war less than 30 years ago!
We obviously knew that the Croatian War took place but up until that moment, we weren't really aware of the fact that it was not that long ago...
Zrmanja Canyon: A surprising stop during our road trip in Croatia
After our stay in Otočac, we drove back to the coast to continue our Croatian itinerary along the Adriatic Sea.
Next stop was Zadar.
But before getting to this cool city, we saw a road sign saying 'Zrmanja Canyon'.
Curious as we are, we decided to check it out and followed the unpaved, very bumpy, gravel path.
And man did we get rewarded! Look at that canyon view!
We sent pictures to both our parents and they immediately recognised this canyon as being part of the old classic Winnetou film of the 1960s, 'The Treasure of the Silver Lake'.
Such a cool chance find: Zrmanja Canyon
Zadar: a sea-organ the most beautiful sunset
Zadar in a nutshell
Zadar is located on the south-west coast of Croatia in northern Dalmatia
It has approximately the same history as all the other coastal towns in Croatia: Illyrians, then Romans, then the Byzantine Empire. Later came the Croatians, the Venetians (of course...) and the Austrians (them too!).
Napoleon had a little say in it too, before the Italians took hold of the city.
Zadar belonged to Yugoslavia for a while before becoming part of Croatia in 1991
The city bears lots of important (and beautiful) early medieval churches and several Roman vestiges
It is a good base to explore the National Parks of Krka and the Plitivice Lakes
Where to stay?
For our 4 days in Zadar, we stayed at the apartment Porin: honestly, from the outside it looks a bit rubbish...
But the apartment itself is very spacious, decorated with taste and had everything we needed.
Plus location-wise it was great as it was at walking distance to a cute beach, the Koloveno Beach, and only a 25 min walk to the historic city centre.
What to do?
Stroll through the city and get impressed by Roman vestiges, byzantine churches and the impressive cathedral.
You can get up the tower of the latter and even watch the sunset as in summer times it only closes at 10 pm.
We were lucky to even catch an open air concert of the Croatian Radio-television Symphony Orchestra right next to the cathedral.
Go watch the sunset at the sea organ! This has been installed in 2005 and the waves crashing into the holes make these eerie sounds, it's magical!
You won't be alone during the summer months, that's for sure. But that view with the sounds as a background really make up for it!
Have a drink afterwards at the Deja Brew Pub right in the cozy city centre if you're fond of beers (I'm Belgian, yes we are!!).
At an about 50 min drive north of Zadar, you'll get to the picturesque town of Pag, on the island of the same name.
Other than being a super cute town with little cobblestoned streets (we love them cobblestoned streets!!), it has a very interesting history:
Pag in a nutshell
Pag is an island in the Adriatic Sea, belonging to the region of Dalmatia
There are only a few towns on the island as it has a stark landscape due to very cold winters and salt spray being constantly scattered all over it - very bad for fauna and flora
A bridge of 301 m long connects the island to mainland Croatia since 1968
It is known for the 'Paski Sir', an internationally renowned cheese from sheep milk
The main city is the town that's also called 'Pag' with less than 3000 inhabitants
What is now the historic city centre is actually called the 'new town'.
But the thing is, that 'new town' dates back to the 15th century! This is when the residents decided to abandon their old town on the far side of the water.
The reasons for this move are unclear, it was either because of the plague (and they are said to have burned down the old town) or the Ottomans...
Again: stroll through the beautiful little streets, treat yourself with some delicious cheese and good wines.
The setting alone is so cute: sitting on a hidden terrace behind the old fortress-walls, underneath the vine leaves.
A traditional family-held restaurant with very tasty food (see pictures below)
Drive further over the island to Zrce which is usually a party hotspot - not much to see there but if this is something you like, go check it out and/or stay there for the night.
Can you see why it is called a 'stark landscape'? Beautiful nonetheless!
On the way to Split: stop at Lake Vrana to soak in some incredible Croatian views, the advantage of doing a road trip! We had a picnic here.
Split in a nutshell
Split is the second biggest town in Croatia
It used to be a Greek colony before the Romans got hold of the city
The Romans built the now famous Diocletian's Palace, a 'retirement-residence/fortress' of Roman emperor Diocletian, built around the year 300
This palace actually forms half of the old town of Split
Said old town of Split in a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979
Where to stay
We booked the Dante Apartment, just outside the old town of Split.
But ultimately, we got this way cuter one: the AS Split right in the historic centre. There had been a double booking but the owner was so kind to give us this one for the same price.
The good thing was: there was a big parking lot at about 15 min walk from the accommodation. Which isn't self-evident, as the old town is mostly composed of narrow little cobblestoned streets, not so much space for cars.
Stroll around or book a guided walking tour (see below) to admire the Roman vestiges or just explore by yourself!
The Diocletian Palace and everything around it is obviously a highlight!
We were constantly in awe every time we discovered another piece of massive Roman walls, subtly (or not so subtly) integrated by medieval or more recent constructions.
Split has lots and lots of super tasty restaurants - Dalmatian cuisine is yummy (see below for our tips)!
Although the Riviera side of the city can be quite busy during summer months, it is very relaxing to just hang out there.
History everywhere!
Relaxing at the Riviera
Beautiful Split harbour
Enjoy the sunset
Get up the Marjan park for the coolest viewpoint on the city!
If you go up even further, you can catch the sunset! Unfortunately, the sun had already set when we arrived at that point but the colours were still beautiful.
Oh and then we got a bit lost on the way back to the accommodation haha! The old town really is a labyrinth of narrow streets.
If you decide to have a little night walk along Split's beautiful Riviera, get yourself some yummy mini-donuts (apparently, Split is famous for this) at one of the food-carts.
And if, unlike me, you know how to avoid getting seasick, rent one of the numerous sailing boats for a sunset-cruise or go explore the Blue Cave (the colours are said to be magnificent).
Trogir: perfect day-trip from Split
At about 40 min drive from Split to the west, you'll find a little coastal town called Trogir.
Trogir in a nutshell
The historic city centre of Trogir actually lies on a tiny island between mainland Croatia and the island Ciovo
Trogir is on UNESCO'S World Heritage Sites list since 1997
Also known as 'The Little Venice' due to its - obviously - Venetian architecture
The origin of the city's name is subject of many legends: one of them is related to goats as the Greek words 'tragos' (goats) and 'oros' (hill) indicate that the town was mostly a goat-herding area
A 15th century Kamerlengo-fortress hosts a famous festival every summer: the Moondance Festival which always takes place in August
Trogir had the very first pharmacy in Europe which opened in 1271!
Various films and series have used the historic centre as a set (yes, Game of Thrones as well)
Again: just stroll around and visit the historic highlights such as the Romanesque cathedral or the 15th century Kamerlengo-fortress.
Or charter a boat to discover the surroundings of the island.
Dancing (kind of) on the pier in front of Venetian looking Trogir
Trogir's cute streets
The way to the Kamerlengo fortress
Trogir's church tower
Hvar Island: little piece of paradise
The ferry-ride to get there from Split was a little bit rough as it was a smaller speed-ferry.
But, I was prepared and had my Boarding Glasses on! You can read all about it in my blogpost about how to avoid getting seasick or just get a cheaper version of theses glasses here.
If you do, please let me know if and how they worked for you! Would love to accumulate some more 'field reports' on that thing before trying it out on sailing boats haha.
Hvar island in a nutshell
Hvar is an island of less than 300 km² off the coast of Split
It lies at the centre of Adriatic sailing routes, which made it important for trade
Hvar has been inhabited since the Neolithic times, after which came the Illyrians and then the Greek (they had a colony on Stari Grad)
Then, of course, came the Venetian Empire, using it as a naval base
The Hvar Rebellion in the 16th century + pirates + the Ottomans caused a lot of trouble
And then came the Austrians again haha, remodelling the big fort overlooking the town of Hvar (read below)
Tourism is economically super important
Lots of ‘famous’ and lesser famous people visit the island every year
An Argentinian world traveller who settled down on the island to create a mix of different cuisines.
He has another restaurant in Split.
Dubrovnik: the 'Adriatic Pearl'
Dubrovnik in a nutshell
Dubrovnik's Old Town has been protected by the UNESCO since 1979
This didn't help during the Croatian War of Independence, though: from 1991 to 1995 the city was heavily bombed and attacked several times
As a result, more than 70% of the iconic red roofs got destroyed and had to be rebuilt: 200.000 roof tiles had to be imported to restore the city
Dubrovnik got even more famous thanks to the Game of Thrones series using it as a filming location
The city was one of the most important centres for the development of the Croatian languages and literature. It is also known for being the 'cultural capital' of Croatia
Where to stay
The first time I went, I stayed right in the old town, in one of the side-streets at the Cinema View House.
It was a little bit difficult to get there with my luggage as it involved steep and narrow stairs but otherwise the location was perfect: super close to the city-center, yet far enough to not be bothered by the street-noises.
Another place I would recommend in terms of accommodation in old town Dubrovnik are the 'La vita e bella - villas' which will give you a bit more luxury right in the historic centre. There are four different ones, one more beautifully arranged than the other!
I wrote an extensive blogpost about the magnificent city of Dubrovnik! Including on how to getfrom Split to Dubrovnik, especially during Covid19-times.
Check it out, especially if we're still in the Covid19-era when you read this blogpost (might update later here) as crossing the Neum-corridor in Bosnia and Herzegovina might cause some problems.
Located on the main street going up to Lapad outside of the old town, this little restaurant with beautiful decoration offers great food at various prizes.
Depends if you want a light lunch (super tasty sandwiches) or a full dinner.
Find more restaurant tips on our post 'From Split to Dubrovnik' as this wasn't my first time here... plus I'll share with you where to have the best views for a drink.
Not to mention THE spot for an incredible sunset! Feel free to do like us and take some picnic up Mount Srd (picture)!
What a finale for our road trip in Croatia: magnificent Dubrovnik
Side-note: our photography gear
We took the ferry from here to Bari, Italy, before continuing our road trip through Europe towards Greece - this last post is also where we list all the gear we packed for this trip (seriously: all of it!!).
I know some of you might be interested in what photography gear we use for our pictures (we get the question a lot) so I'll list you the main items here:
This is the exact gear that we use for our photos and videos. We are thinking of getting a new, bigger tripod, though. But we'll still be using this one as well.
To sum it up
This was our complete road trip in Croatia, a coastline itinerary for either 10 days or 2 to 3 weeks - it's all up to you!
As you could see/read, road tripping in Croatia is an amazing experience, offering everything from cultural sights to incredible nature!
Not to mention that the food is absolutely delicous (hence: the restaurant tips)!
I hope you had fun reading through this Croatian itinerary and don't forget to comment, share or pin this post for your preparation to your very own road trip in Croatia!
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