Backpacking in Jordan: All You Need To Know (And More)

When thinking of backpacking in Jordan, several questions generally arise.

Is it safe? What is the general budget? Is Jordan expensive? Is it easy to find a decent accommodation? What is there to see or to do in Jordan?

These were all the questions we had in mind ourselves before heading here. But we didn't have that much time to find the answers and plan ahead. If you recall, our world trip turned into a road trip through Europe first, and a super-spontaneous way of travelling next.

But the things we've seen in Jordan were absolutely worth the trip! From the bruising city of Amman with its well preserved Roman ruins over the incredible site of Petra to the quietness of Wadi Rum desert - Jordan has so much to offer!

So everything happened really fast but worked out so well that we decided to put our experiences into this guide about backpacking in Jordan!

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First of all: why did we choose Jordan?

Spontaneous destination

If you have been following our adventure on Instagram (head over to themarveloustravelers if you haven't - we put everything into our story-highlights), you know that before coming to Jordan we were actually pretty much at the other end of the world: in French Polynesia.

That's when the French decided to close the border due to increasing Covid19-cases. They can do that as Polynesia is an overseas territory of France. Bummer! 

No flights in or out of Polynesia anymore. Except... towards Paris, France.

We had actually planned to go to Asia from Polynesia, which would have been much closer. But because the only flights leaving from Polynesia went to Europe, we had to find something in that area.

Few countries were open, of course.

That being said, Jordan had always been super high on my never-ending bucket list! We just figured we would do that trip some other time.

Luckily we didn't! And based on the non-photoshopped pictures you will easily understand why.

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Funny coincidence

Back in 2015, during the first strong wave of refugees coming to Europe from the Middle East, I decided to give classes in a camp that had been installed close to home.

That's where I met Bashar, a lovely Palestinian that grew very close to my heart.

I knew that he had family in Jordan and that he had visited the country several times so I contacted him. I actually just wanted some general tips before heading to Jordan (we booked the flights two days before leaving).

Lucky for us, he was going to be there at the same time! Turns out he had some family business to attend to and was planning on being there anyway!

So we had our personal guide who helped us with the language and showed us the very authentic Jordanian lifestyle!

Main things to know about Jordan

Jordan in a nutshell

A  modern country

Of all the Arabic countries in the Levant, Jordan is by far one of the most 'Western' ones. Islamic culture and religion are still very strong but in certain aspects, things have been modernised.

This is something that is influenced by the school system. With only 14 % of women and 4 % of men being analphabetic, the rate of literacy is one of the highest ones in the Arabic world. 

While Arabic is the main language, English is taught very early in school. But in smaller towns in the countryside, it's not that prominent.

Economically, only 5% of the country's surface is usable for agriculture. This means that a lot has to be imported, resulting in a generally more expensive country than the neighbours. 

Tourism makes about 10% of the gross domestic product and is the second most important source of income.

Even though Jordan has been at peace for more than 30 years, tourists are still a bit reticent to really take advantage of the country's rich touristic offer.

In the city vs. Bedouin lifestyle

Of the 1.1 million inhabitants, the major part is concentrated in the cities. This is obviously a totally different lifestyle than the Bedouins living in tents on the outskirts or in the valleys.

While the government provided the funds to build villages with proper houses for the Bedouins, a lot of them still prefer their traditional way of living. Which means that they do own a house but still live in a basic tent outside of the villages.

A lot of them hold on to their traditions so you will see a lot of red and white keffiyehs, dark circles around their eyes (a sort of coal to protect their eyes from sand and sun) and a different clothing style.

Also, don't be surprised when wandering around in Petra and Wadi Rum that every guide will tell you that this guys here is his cousin, the one with the store over there his brother and his other cousin served you tea before.

Bedouins still have large families and all of them work together in one way or another. Having a lot of children is very important in their culture as they will take care of their parents at a later stage. 

Budget

Currency

The official currency is the Jordanian dinar (JD). At the time of writing, 1JD is about 1,19 € / 1,41 US$.

One Dinar is 100 piastre or quirsh in Arabic. 

ATMs are available in the cities and towns but also near tourist attractions such as Petra. Even the Bedouin village in the Wadi Rum desert has one.

Accommodation-prices

This greatly depends on the kind of accommodation you are looking for of course.

You can find a decent bedroom with en-suite bathroom in the city for about 15 JD.

But to get this price, as a foreigner, you will either have to beat down the price when talking to the owner or have someone local negotiate before the host has seen who the room is for. 

If you book through Booking, always have the payment made through the site. That way they won't try to drive up the price for whatever silly reason once your stay is over.

Read also | Where to stay in Crete: best places on a budget

Best time for backpacking in Jordan

Weather in Jordan

It kind of depends on your accommodation-style. But in general, I'd say the best time is spring: from March to May.

People assume that because Jordan's landscape is mostly desert, it is always dry, hot and sunny.

Nope.

They have winters with cold temperatures and even occasional snow. When it rains it pours and can even causes very dangerous flash floods, especially in desert areas.

We went in March and although it was sunny every day, it was a bit chilly. Granted, we just came down from French Polynesia where we had 30°C every day. But still, people were wearing coats.

If you're going for the hardcore backpacking-style in Jordan, you might want to pack extra layers especially when staying in camps in the desert.

Crowds or no crowds

If you plan on visiting hotspots such as Petra and Wadi Rum (well, you should!), avoid going in April, October and November. This is when visitor numbers on these sites are at their highest.

Budget-decision

April and May are good for warmer temperatures and lower prices.

During Ramadan (generally starting somewhere in May), prices are even lower but you might find more restaurants closed. 

Is it safe to go backpacking in Jordan?

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: over the years, Jordan has often been referred to as 'the quiet house in the noisy neighbourhood'.

That is because it is nested between Syria, Israel and Palestine, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. These neighbours have been dominating the news with tensions and armed conflicts on a regular basis.

Of course, things happen here as well sometimes and islamic extremists aren't totally inexistent. But the general politics of the Jordanian government is a very open relationship towards the Western world.

In terms of religion, even though the majority is of Sunni-islamic confession, people from Christian or Jewish confessions are openly tolerated and even allowed to build their own churches.

Religious stuff and whether you should adapt

This means that as a woman you won't feel the need to wear a hijab as even Jordanian women are often non-veiled. Naturally, when visiting a mosque you will be asked to cover up. But catholic churches in Europe aren't very different in that matter.

For tourists, there are no restrictions whatsoever for staying at a hotel. It is a totally different matter for Arabs, though. They will generally be required to show proof of a marriage licence if they want to share a room as a couple. Nobody asked us, though. We look unmistakably European.

That being said, Jordan is a very modern and progressive country and even LGBTQ+ travellers should not worry, especially in the city. In the countryside you might get a few stares if publicly displaying affection. But you get that for only looking differently anyway. 

Oh, and if you happen to listen to the radio while driving around, you will end up going through numerous stations that are only sung Qur'an-verses. Nice to hear at first but it can get annoying after a while.

Tourism and petty crime

What you will experience first-hand when you check into one of the bigger hotels is that safety measures have increased in recent years by having all of your luggage thoroughly examined. 

But statistics regarding petty crime and theft are actually lower than several European countries. Jordanians know very well that tourism is their main asset. So they will do anything they can to prevent scaring off their visitors.

Tourist police is also very present at all major sites - all to prevent crime, not because there is a lot of it.

Tap water and food

Tap water is generally not safe to drink. Though unlike other countries we visited, you sure can brush your teeth with it.

Food is usually well cooked and even with raw salad we had no problems at all. After all, I know pretty well what causes my gut to speak up. 

Middle Eastern food has some very strange elements, though. But you'll read all about it in my food-guide to Jordan coming in the near future.

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Where to stay?

This section contains affiliate-links which means that we earn a tiny commission every time you book through one of our links to no additional cost for you.

Heads up | We normally write our cost per night in our guides. But we were travelling during a global pandemic so the prices might be very different from what they usually are. It's best to check the prices of the linked hotels for yourself.

The North

We would definitely recommend staying in the historic centre of Amman. Admittedly, the hotels here aren't a very high standard but this is where you will get a real feel for the city.

You can't experience the bruising capital of Jordan without taking in the noises from cars, people yelling and the muezzins calling for prayers.

Also, the city has a very special vibe in the evening so you don't want to miss that.

Another good point for that part of the city is that the prices are cheaper - providing that you negotiated that price beforehand (see under accommodation prices above) or got a good deal on Booking.

The more you get away from the roaring centre, the higher the prices. But also: the better the accommodations.

We stayed at the Al-Houriat Hotel which was very basic. But it was clean and had a very hot shower (which is not always the case). The rest of the room was pretty cold, though.

Oh, and the owner had the price set at 15 JD when our friend Bashar asked for a room. As soon as he knew that the room was for us, he tripled the price (read more about that nasty habit here). 

But ultimately, we paid the 15 JD because otherwise we would have left.

We came back to Amman at the end of our trip to get the car back to Queen Alia Airport and fly back home. This time we stayed at the La Casa Hotel which was a standard business hotel offering a great deal at the time and located in a quiet area on the outskirts of the city.

The Centre

To explore the country's centre, you don't necessarily need a new accommodation. Jordan is not that big and you could easily drive back and forth between Amman and the places we recommend for this specific area.

However, if you plan on having de full Dead Sea experience (see below), we would suggest looking for a place close to the sea.

The prices are a lot higher, of course, when you choose one of the big resorts that have access to a private beach.

However, it does have certain advantages as they will most likely offer everything you need for the traditional mud- and salt-scrubbing thing.

We stayed at the Crowne Plaza in Sowayma but only because our friend insisted that we did. It's not usually our type of accommodation (at all) and when thinking of backpacking in Jordan, this is pretty far from it.

But we just had had a journey of 48h+ travelling up from Polynesia so this was actually some very welcome luxury!

Plus: while we were there (March 2021), the Friday-lockdown was still in place. Meaning we were not allowed to leave the accommodation on Friday. The hotel had a huge pool and a private access to the Dead Sea so we were still able to get outside without infringing the rules.

The South

In this part, even though the destinations aren't that far from one another, you will want to book in three separate locations to make the most out of it.

For visiting Petra

Find a place to stay in Wadi Musa, the town right at the entrance of fabulous Petra - you will be grateful when you don't have to walk very far to be one of the first visitors at 6 am when everything is still quiet.

We stayed at the La Maison Hotel, very close to Petra's main entrance. It took us barely 5min by foot. The rooms were quite small but very comfortable (the bed!) and the service was great. This rather small hotel is located right behind the huge Mövenpick-Hotel and is a bit hidden. 

The price was great at that moment!

The desert experience in Wadi Rum

For the Wadi Rum desert, there is a whole panoply of choices for authentic Bedouin-camping. Here again, the prices depend on the kind of experience you want.

It goes from a simple (and cold) tent with separate sanitary station to a 'Martian tent' with luxurious bed and a proper bathroom inside. Plus air-conditioning that you will need: both during the day to cool off the tent and in the night for heating because - yes - temperatures drop down to zero in the desert.

We stayed in Hussam's Sharah Luxury Camp. It had the advantage to be at the edge of the park which meant not many other camps around and thus very quiet.

But at the same time, this was also a disadvantage because we would have needed to book a full-day tour to get to the centre - and these are expensive (read down below).

We booked a simple Bedouin tent but got the 'Martian' one for the same price as Hussam didn't have any other guests at that time.

Diving in the Red Sea

If diving is your thing, you will find plenty of hotels/diving centres in and around Aqaba! Diving in the Red Sea is quite an experience (read more about it below).

We stayed at the Red Sea Dive Center which is one of the smaller boutique-hotels. It is family-run which means that the service is great as they basically welcome you into their homes.

The rooms were basic but with lovely details such as mosaic-lamps, handmade by the host. Very cute!

We did two dives and the equipment is very professional and well maintained. We also felt very comfortable with our host who was also the diving instructor (we have our OWD* from SSI but we are still beginners as we just did the course in Polynesia a few weeks earlier). 

This one was also very well situated as the main hotspots for wreck diving, for example, were easily accessible from here. Which means that you could get in from the shore - for someone like me who gets easily seasick, any dive not requiring to get there by boat is a dream!

*Open Water Diver

Read also | How to avoid getting seasick: the solution?

The Jordan Pass

If you want to save money and see everything there is to see in Jordan: get the Jordan Pass.

It's a digital pass that you can buy online before coming to Jordan. 

You will get it as a handy QR-code on your phone and it grants access to over 40 attractions in the whole country with major sites like Petra, Jerash and the Wadi Rum reserve.

No matter which one you choose (see  below), it includes the entry visa to Jordan that costs 40 JD (48 € / 57 US$) alone. Only condition: you have to stay in Jordan for at least three nights.

So if you plan on getting the most out of your stay in Jordan and you are backpacking on a budget at the same time, definitely have a look at this option.

Getting around in Jordan

Not that many options here.

Bus | The cheaper option is the public bus. Jordan has quite a good road infrastructure and major cities are well connected. But once you leave the main axes, towns aren't easily reachable anymore. The buses don't always have fixed timetables but leave when they are full.

JETT | Some hotels/hostels offer transportation with the JETT (Jordan Express Tourist Transport) and there are plenty of taxis in the cities - negotiate a good price before leaving, though!

Car | The easiest way would be to rent a car at the airport: much more flexible and you can explore corners you might not get to otherwise.

To get to the desert, the car is definitely better! Beware, though: if the camp you chose to stay at is in the middle of the reserve, you might want to rent a 4x4.

We didn't have one, we chose a cheaper option, but luckily our camp was located at the edge of Wadi Rum desert.

On the other hand, this meant that we had to book jeep tours to get inside - this probably cost more in total than renting a 4x4 from the beginning.

Unlike in Mexico, the Dominican Republic or even to a lesser extent Costa Rica, where the police loves nothing more than to extort money from tourists, officers in Jordan just does normal checks, asking for the driving licence and wishing you a good trip.

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Top things to visit in Jordan

In and around the capital city Amman: the North

The city centre and the Roman Theatre

When strolling through the historic city centre, you will pass by stores selling fresh spices and souvenirs, cheap clothing and 'Dead Sea products', restaurants with typical Middle Eastern food and fresh fruit juices.

Then you arrive at the Roman Theatre, in the heart of the city. A 2nd century, very well preserved theatre that once held 6000 seats. 

Back then, the city of Amman was known as 'Philadelphia'. Nowadays, the theatre is used as a venue for cultural activities such as the Amman International Book Fair and the Al-Balad Music Festival.

The side entrances lead to the Jordan Museum of Popular Tradition on one side, and the Jordan Folklore Museum on the other side. 

Don't forget to venture inside the Suq for your souvenir-shopping (read below).

Amman citadel

Amman has a total of seven hills and the L-shaped one bears the citadel.

The site has been occupied since the Neolithic era and has been used by various cultures throughout the centuries. 

You can either drive or walk up the hill to admire the views over the city and the ruins dating for the bigger part back to the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods.

Up there, you will also find the Jordan Archaeological Museum (if that's your thing) and lots of spaces that have yet to be excavated.

Ajloun Castle

Driving North from Amman for about 70 km (1h30 drive), you get to the impressive Ajloun Castle.

The fortress was built during the 12th century and served as a messaging post in the defence-system against the crusader state of Jerusalem.

Ajloun is one of the many castle serving this same purpose that sultan Saladin had built. The messages were delivered by means of carrier pigeons and fire (not at the same time - haha).

It offers dazzling views over the surrounding hills and all the way to Israel and Palestine. 

The Roman city of Jerash

To the North of Amman, approximately 40 km (1h00 by car) lies the city of Jerash.

In its midst: a pretty big site that was got so important under Roman rule during the 1st century AD that it even was a threat to the older city of Petra, the leader in the trade-business at the time.

One (amongst others) particular feature is the oval forum. The Romans generally prefer more regular shapes and this one is almost pear-like. Its function remains unclear, it might have been a trading area but it could also have served as a venue for sacrifices.

Mount Nebo

Around 35 km (0h50 min drive) to the South West of Amman lies the Mount Nebo, a mountain that is part of the Abǎrim range.

From the top of the 808 m one can overlook the Jordan River valley, all the way to the Dead Sea and to Israel.

According to the bible, this is where Moses got to see the 'promised land' before he died. Nope, he didn't even get to go there - so nice, God!

Anyway, even if you are not that religious (we aren't), the views are incredible and the  church originally built in the 4th century and rebuilt many times during the following centuries are well worth the detour.

Several mosaics dating from the 6th and the 8th century inside are quite impressive. So is the baptismal chapel from the 6th century.

There is also a tiny museum and a Franciscan monastery still in function - which additionally serves to host the archaeologists working on site.

Madaba

Madaba is a city located approximately 35 km (0h40 min by car) South of Amman. 

Founded by the 'Moabites', the city's name is found several times in the bible. During the 1st century BC, the Nabateans took it over before the Roman came. Then it became a bishop's see and the Persian conquered Madaba afterwards. 

An earthquake destroyed most of it in the 8th century and the city was forgotten until Christians came back in the 19th century. That's when they found well preserved old mosaics underneath the ruins.

One of them is particularly interesting as it's supposed to depict the map of Palestine.

1978 a small archaeological park and museum were built around the mosaics. The only guide at on site was an older Arab who barely spoke English. He did his outmost best, though, to give some explanations in Arabic with hand signs and a few English words.

The town on itself is quite beautiful with a few churches and a visitor centre that gives lots of historical information. They even have some 'historical itineraries' but unfortunately, we were out of time to do them.

Al Maghtas or 'Bethany beyond the Jordan Baptism Site'

To the South East of Amman (54 km, approximately 1h00) runs the Jordan River.

On that river is a site called 'Al Maghtas' that is supposed to be THE spot where Jesus was baptised. Believe it or not, 150.000 people visited that place in 2019!

There is an archaeological area with a ruined monastery, a few churches and the famous baptism pond. If you want, you can buy a white dress and get 'baptised' inside the (dirty looking) river.

To be honest, we drove to the site to check it out because people talked about it, it's protected by the UNESCO and I wanted to bring something for my grandma.

But once we saw that the entrance was 12 JD (14,30 € / 17 US$), we quickly checked the reviews online and got the disappointing info I just gave you here.

So we didn't visit it.

According to the same reviews, the Israeli-side of the river, where they also promote the baptism-tourism, is way more modern and interesting to visit.

We'll have to check that out once we get to Israel.

The Dead Sea

This is where you move closer to the country's centre and it is absolutely a must-stop when backpacking in Jordan!

There is not so much to say here except that you have to go into the Dead Sea at some point because it is one of a kind.

You might have learned this in school and totally forgotten about it, but the Dead Sea is actually a salt lake at the lowest elevation point on land (430,5 m below sea level). With a salinity of 34,2% it is more than nine times saltier than the ocean!

The density of 1.24 kg/litre is the reason you can't really swim in it. You float.

Nowadays, the Dead Sea is receding rather quickly and they are actively looking for a solution to prevent the lake from drying out.

Want to know the ultimate Dead Sea experience? Head over here.

Following King's Highway: the Centre

King's Highway

Built as a very important trade route in the ancient Near East (meaning a few thousand years BC!) that linked Africa to Mesopotamia, King's Highway crosses through several countries: from Egypt to Aqaba and towards Syria. 

Since the 7th century AD, it is also part of the very important pilgrim route to Mecca. 

Nowadays, King's Highway bears the number 35. While there are shorter routes for example to get from Aqaba to Amman (or vice-versa), King's Highway is the most scenic one!

It is obviously a lot slower due to numerous curves going down the valley and up the hill. But it is insanely beautiful.

Kerak Castle

When following King's Highway from Aqaba or Wadi Rum to Amman, you will drive past Kerak (or Karak) Castle.

It's a pretty well situated Crusader-castle and actually one of the largest in the Levant with incredible views, built in the 12th century.

For the cinephiles: it played a major role in the movie 'Kingdom of Heaven' (Orlando Bloom, right?).

Unfortunately, it is not protected by the UNESCO as they declared that there are 'more representative examples of crusader castles'. 

Umm Ar-Rasas

This UNESCO World Heritage Site of Umm Ar-Rasas shows numerous ruins from the Roman, Byzantine and early Muslim periods. 

It is very well known and appreciated for several beautiful mosaics and a peculiar feature that is said to be a 'Stylite tower' - a sort of pillar with a platform where Christian ascetics would live on and pray.

As we were running out of time, we didn't visit the site but we definitely put it on the list for our next visit to Jordan.

The main highlights of our backpacking trip through Jordan: the South

The Lost City of Petra

Ahhhh here it comes!

Probably one of the reasons (if not THE major one) you want to get to Jordan, amiright?

At the end of the Siq Canyon lies the incredibly fascinating site of Petra, the capital city of the Nabatean Kingdom. The majority was built during the 3rd century BC when the Nabateans were the most powerful traders in the area.

Petra is mostly known for the monumental tombs carved into the rock. Each tomb is individual, with its own set of symbols, representing the owner's status and wealth. 

The whole site was named UNESCO World Heritage Site (and one of the new 7 World Wonders in 2007) in 1985.

That's when it started to attract more people. Though the real boom came when Spielberg chose the Treasury as the main element for the most iconic scene in 'Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade' (yes, I've seen all of the Indy movies dozens of times...).

In 2019, Petra had a record-number of 1.135 million (!) visitors.

In 2020, Petra had a few thousand visitors over the whole year, most of them Jordanians.

Definitely don't only do the 'Treasury'! That's something cruise-tourists like to do as they only have a very limited time. It's so sad because then you really haven't seen Petra.

You should absolutely try to get down all the way to the 'Monastery'. If you don't have that much time or aren't fit enough, there are dozens of Bedouins waiting for you with their donkeys, camels and horses to bring you there. 

Just negotiate a good price beforehand, though! And make sure they give you the total price, not per person.

Our favourite trails were the Al Kubtha and the 'High Place of Sacrifices'.

The Al Kubtha is best done early in the morning. First of all: there are a lot of stairs and past 11 am, these will be in the sun... Second of all: if you manage to be up top at the viewpoint looking down on the Treasury at sunrise, the sight of the sun rays slowly making their way up that temple-like tomb is insane.

To go up, you will pass by Ahmad's shop at the foot of the 'Royal Tombs' - if you do, give him our greetings. We spent a lot of time there.

For an even more extensive guide on how and what to visit in of Petra? See below!

>> Inside of Petra: A Complete Guide to the Lost City <<

Little Petra

Well, doesn't need much of an explanation, does it?

To get to Little Petra from Wadi Nusa, you will cross the Bedouin village. The Bedouins occupied the caves in Petra before it got protected by the UNESCO. The Jordanian government had a village built between both Petras for the Bedouins to permanently live in. 

Little Petra is also a Nabatean site, carved into the sandstone. But it is significantly smaller and can be a little disappointing when you come straight from its bigger sister.

Nevertheless, it is very particular as it is less crowded and has the one of the only cave where the inner walls still bear the exquisite Nabatean paintings of grapes, vines and putti of (2000 years old, guys!). There are others but not with that degree of quality.

There is no entrance fee except if you want to do the hike that leads to the back of the 'Monastery' in Petra that is apparently very beautiful. In that case, you will need the Jordan Pass, respectively your ticket for Petra.

The desert experience in Wadi Rum

The name 'wadi' actually just means valley. 

'Wadi Rum' means 'Valley of the moon'. And it's easy to see why they called it that.

The biggest wadi in Jordan, 740 km², has been declared World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 2011.

Wadi Rum has been inhabited by several different cultures, each leaving their mark like carvings in the rock. 

It became famous once the British officer T. E. Lawrence wrote about this place and the Bedouins in his book 'Seven pillars of wisdom' while he was stationed here during the Arab Revolt. Even more so, once his story was turned into a movie ('Lawrence of Arabia' - sounds familiar, anyone?) in 1962.

This is where you can sleep in a rustic tent or even a more luxurious one, underneath the most starry sky you've ever seen. 

You might even want to take the camels to ride into the sunset - cheesy, I know! But still kind of cool!

Due to the eery rock formation and the red sand, Wadi Rum was used as a filming location for several great movies such as 'The Martian' or 'The Rise of Skywalker'.

Definitely worth spending a night or two!

Read also | Wadi Rum Camp Adventure: All you need to know

Aqaba and the Red Sea

The city of Aqaba doesn't have that much to offer, quite honestly.

But the Red Sea does!

Diving in the Red Sea is quite the experience. Especially if you are into wrecks and stuff! Most diving-spots are accessible from the shore and you get to see things like a giant freighter, a plane and even a military tank!

Of course, these have been put there in purpose: coral reefs tend to form pretty well on these types of objects. It's still very impressive to see!

Most of the hotels in Aqaba along the coast have their own dive centre. Like I mentioned before, we stayed at the Red Sea Dive Center and we were pretty satisfied.

We paid 50 JD (60 € / 71 US$) per person for two dives of approximately 50 minutes each. So 25 JD (30 € / 35,50 US$) per dive. 

Experiences you need to have while backpacking in Jordan

Have a night tea at the foot of the Roman Theatre in Amman

You'll find food trucks selling hot tea almost everywhere in the city. 

There is one located right at the Roman Theatre and we absolutely loved the vibe of that square in the evenings. 

Visit a Shisha-bar

Yes, we know. We shouldn't be advocating something that is bad for your health but it's something that is intrinsically tied to the Arab culture and so we feel that this is a must-do when visiting Jordan.

We went to Amoun Café in the city centre (K. Faysal sq.). They don't have a site but we loved the vibe of the place and the service was super friendly.

Sleep in the desert

Like we mentioned before on the top things to visit in Jordan, you should definitely book at least one (better two or three) nights in the Wadi Rum Desert. 

Be it in a very basic Beduin tent that is just... a tent, a more sophisticated one with toilet or the glamping-version with the 'Martian-tent' as they call them.

The Dead Sea experience

Head to the Dead Sea to stay at one of the more luxurious hotels like the Crowne Plaza. Of course, you will definitely find budget-friendly options as well.

No matter where you're staying, try to get the full on Dead Sea experience: get covered (and I mean REALLY covered) in black mud from the Dead Sea. Let it fully dry until you can barely move.

The jump.. wait! No, don't jump. Just walk into the water. Not long and you will be swept off your feet. One tip (that everyone will give you): get on your back, it's way easier to float and move in that position. Plus it's very comfortable as you basically sit on the water.

After spending some time in the sea, get out and get yourself an intense scrub with coarse salt.

Don't forget to shower! And don't ever touch your face and especially your eyes with that water! Burns like hell!!

Hot Springs in Jordan

Weirdly enough, yes: there are several hot springs. Especially around the Dead Sea.

Here it depends on what version you want: the budget-friendly, a.k.a. free ones you find along the road - there is no sign but you will see several parked cars and little shops in tents selling swimming gear.

Or you could pay an entrance fee (see below) to get to Ma'in Hot Springs that are part of a bigger resort. The whole area is very clean and there are several hot waterfalls coming down.

You can even get behind one of the falls and wander in a cave with water too hot to get your feet in (Sebi tried).

Have some knafeh and a freshly pressed juice in Amman

'You haven't been to Jordan if you haven't tasted Knafeh'.

It's a dessert made of cheese in shredded filo pastry, soaked in a sticky sweet syrup and covered with nuts.

It is very weird at first but actually so tasty that we went back a second time at the end of our trip to get some more!

The most famous one is found at Habibah Sweets. It's not necessarily the best one, I'm sure there are plenty that are just as good, but it's very renowned because the King and Queen of Jordan tried it here when they visited the city.

Hence: huge queues forming every afternoon and evening to get that delicious treat.

To accompany this sweet stuff, head to one of the numerous fresh-fruit-juice-makers in the Rainbow Street. Or if it isn't sweet enough for you: they also have freshly pressed sugar cane juice in several places (first time we tasted that).

Beware though, they tend to mix the sugar cane juice with water behind the counter - make sure you have the machine in front of you.

Try the mansaf, a typically Jordanian dish

To be fair, when I read about this dish I wasn't that anxious to try it... 

Jordanians claim that mansaf is their national dish, being a typical Bedouin-thing and all, but it can be found all over the Levant.

It is originally made with lamb but we had it with chicken instead. The main ingredient is the fermented goat yoghurt. Served with rice, the dish is usually served to guests and eaten without cutlery.

The name actually just means 'large dish' and that's accurate. We got invited by our friends aunt who lives in Amman. I mean... look at the picture: that was just for the three of us!!

It is traditionally served on special occasions such as birthdays, the breaking of the fast, Easter, Jordan's Independence Day, etc. Or simply to honour special guests. And that was our luck.

Additional things to know that might surprise you

Hospitality

Be it in the city or amongst the Bedouins in the desert, Jordanians will always welcome you, asking where you're from.

Side-note: while Belgium was pretty well known, they always mistook Austria for Australia. So we ended up always saying the Arabic  word for Austria, 'namsa'.

They will also most likely invite you for tea and 'some food' in their homes. Only... to them, 'some food' means serving you a huge plate that looks like it was meant for a whole group.

Don't be surprised either when they invite you to spend the night at their home or - in case of the Bedouins in Petra or the desert - in their tent or cave. It's totally normal and a great experience.

In the city-houses, the very first room behind the entry door is always a tea-room for guests. That way, Jordanians can invite guests inside their home without violating any privacy.

Cheating

That's something we didn't like at all. While they are indeed very welcome, Arabs tend to trick Non-Arabs. That goes for pretty much every Arabic country.

They will always try to have you pay at least three times the actual price. So be ready to constantly negotiate.

One might argue that they earn less than we do in Europe and therefore it's only fair we pay a bit more. But no, that's actually pretty bad for locals as well: tourists willingly paying the exaggerated prices actually contribute in increasing the general cost of living for locals.

So don't give up too quickly! Even if you beat down the price significantly, you will still pay too much in the end. Trust me.

Night rest

If you are a light sleeper, bring earplugs when staying in the cities.

Especially if it's your first time in an Arabic country, the call of the muezzin resonating from dozens of mosques all around you will definitely wake you up at 4 or 5 in the morning (depending on when the sun rises).

Smoking

Jordanians are heavy smokers!

Be it cigarettes or shisha, as a non-smoker you will feel out of place at times.

Funny story: Hussam, our host at the Bedouin camp in the desert, told us that the army started to distribute bread when the first hard lockdown hit. But here's what he said: 'they should have come with cigarettes, that would have been way more useful!'

Truth is, cigarettes were indeed heavily sought after when the stores had to close for several weeks. 

Environment

Arabs aren't eco-friendly. And that's an understatement! 

When visiting from a Western country, you will likely be shocked by the amount of trash lying around. It's literally everywhere!

Remember the hot springs I talked about earlier? I didn't DARE to get in because the garbage was so disgusting. Let alone soaking my hair in that water.

Here again, that's not typically Jordanian or anything. The Arabic mentality in general is like that. They haven't be sensitised to these matters. 

In the city, there are trash cans everywhere. And still, people just throw their empty bottles, cups and cigarette butts on the floor.

Also, there is no proper table-cloth in the restaurants. It is replace by a big sheet of plastic and the dinnerware of the same material is used for eating. Once finished, the whole thing gets just thrown away.

Alcohol

This is something you might or might not know. We did because like I said earlier, I used to teach at a refugee camp where most of my students were Muslims. Hence I know a lot about their religion and habits.

As with most of the countries where the Islam is the predominant religion, alcohol can only be found in specialised liquor stores or in very touristy hotels and restaurants.

The ones owned by locals in the cities or the desert hardly ever have anything alcoholic in their fridges.

Jordanian Keffiyeh

The keffiyeh is a traditional Arabian headdress. In Jordan, it is known as the 'shemagh mhadab' and the colours are white and red unlike the neighbouring countries.

The red got introduced by the Bedouins under British rule. 

We got some ourselves because our dear Bashar insisted on buying them. And it is actually not considered offensive when worn by foreigners. It shows ones sympathy for the Arabian culture instead.

Toilet use

This too, you may or may not know, but in the Arab world, they hardly ever use toilet paper but a sanitary water hose instead.

Because Jordan is quite touristy, you will generally find both systems. 

But if you stay with locals and especially with Bedouins in the desert, you won't find any paper. Their sewage system isn't made for that either so refrain from throwing papers inside the toilet.

In the desert, chances are high that you will find the 'Turkish toilet'. You know, the one with no seat where you have to crouch... they have these too at rest-stops along the main French highway and I honestly never understood why!!

Coffee & tea

Coffee in Jordan ain't coffee like we're used to in Europe. The coffee you get here is Turkish coffee: very hot, thick and with a strong taste of cardamom.

You have to try it because, well, you should try everything. But one time is enough. Stick to tea after that 🙂 

The tea on the other hand is very tasty. It's either mint, black tea or sage or what they call the Bedouin tea. Never say no when someone invites you for tea - tea is more than just a beverage in the Arab world. It's a philosophy and a beloved past-time.

It is considered rude to say no to an invitation for tea (or food, for that matter).

They do accept it when you don't want it sweetened. Even though they will add about 3 chunks or spoons of sugar for themselves. They know Europeans aren't used to that much sugar.

Travelling as a woman

We travelled as a couple so I can't really speak for how it is to be travelling as a woman alone.

We did get approached twice by policemen at the checkpoints, asking in broken English if Sebi and I were 'family'. I suppose they wanted to check if I was married because I heard one policeman yelling something with 'djamila' in Arabic, which means 'beautiful'.

He may have said something else but Jordanians are known for they flattery towards single women, especially when they look different (in my case: blond).

Don't be surprised when they come sit next to you and start talking, a woman should never sit alone so to them it's normal they don't leave you this way.

Things to buy for your loved ones at home

Or for yourself, obviously!

Useful stuff

Dead Sea products | Amongst the useful stuff, you can get all kinds of Dead Sea products. From mud over scrubs to face cream. Just be careful, the prices vary greatly from one store to the next and like I mentioned before, they will ALWAYS try to get the highest price for it. Don't fall for it.

Ceramics | Again: always negotiate. But they do have beautiful little cups and plates. I would have love to bring home some of those but our luggage was pretty limited. We just bought a tiny cup for my sister-in-law with a Nabatean design in Petra.

Spices | You can find them everywhere in Amman. But they vary greatly in quality and price. Try to get some Za'atar and Sumac (that's what we did). Za'atar is actually a kind of oregano and generally mixed with sesame, sumac, salt and other spices - they use it a lot for their lamb dishes in the Middle East. Sumac has a little sour taste similar to lemon and has a bright purple colour.

Olive oil | We actually didn't buy some because glass bottles are just to heavy to travel with but Jordanian olive oil is supposed to have a very strong and delicious taste.

Baklava | So many different kinds! So yummy! But oh so sweet! The good thing with that much honey and sugar is that they preserve very well and are easy to travel with.

Less useful stuff 

Shirts | If you want something original from Jordan, not the typical souvenir, head to Mlabbas. They print funny and original designs on shirts, sweaters, caps and stuff. 

Souvenirs you'll find everywhere | Jewellery, lamps, 'water from the Jordan river', 'Holy Oil', etc

Keffiyeh | Like I mentioned earlier, the keffiyeh from Jordan is red and white, introduced by the Bedouins. If you want to buy one, you don't have to necessarily wear it on your head (in Jordan you can, though; everyone does it, even Non-Arabs). It's actually quite beautiful as scarf. And again: it shows appreciation of the Arab culture.

Sand bottles | This is one of the most popular souvenirs of Jordan. Not useful at all as it really just is for decoration but they are cute. Most of the souvenir-stores will make personalised ones for you by letting you choose the design they make in the sand and adding your name if you like.

Backpacking in Jordan: itinerary options

Jordan in 7 days

Day 1 | Arrive in Amman. Depending on when you land, head straight for the Roman Theatre. Jerash and Ajloun Castle are easy to reach from here and close to each other.

Day 2 | Drive to Mount Nebo and past the Dead Sea before heading to Petra. You could squeeze in Kerak Castle, it doesn't take that much time to visit. But with all these stops, the journey will take you almost 5h00 in total, bear that in mind.

Day 3 | Visit the main highlights of Petra. But we would recommend to at least add a second day.

Day 4 | Do the Al Kubtha trail in the morning and the 'High Place of Sacrifices' in the afternoon. Drive to Wadi Rum in the evening, it will take a bit less than 2h00. Arriving at the camp, you will most certainly be invited for a night tea by the fire.

Day 5 | Book a jeep tour to the main highlights of Wadi Rum. The Bedouins will generally offer you the choice for tours that last 4, 6 or 8 hours. Drive to Aqaba (1h00) in the evening.

Day 6 | Just relax or book a diving tour. But the dive should be in the morning, depending on when your flight leaves the next day. There should always be at least 12hours between a dive and a flight.

Day 7 | Drive or fly back to Amman to enjoy some food. If you drive, it's the longest journey you will make in Amman and takes about 4h00 for the short way. If you decide to drive back the scenic King's Highway, count 1 or 2h00 extra. Either fly home the same evening or allow yourself to spend the night in Amman and fly home the next day.

Jordan in 10 days

The itinerary is basically the same as the 7-days-route, we would just add one day at a few of the stops.

Day 1 | Arrive in Amman. Depending on when you land, head straight for the Roman Theatre. Jerash and Ajloun Castle are easy to reach from here and close to each other.

Day 2 | Drive to Mount Nebo and past the Dead Sea before heading to Petra. You could squeeze in Kerak Castle, it doesn't take that much time to visit. But with all these stops, the journey will take you almost 5h00 in total, bear that in mind.

Day 3 | Visit the Treasury and the Monastery. But we would recommend to at least add a second day.

Day 4 | Do the Al Kubtha trail in the morning and the 'High Place of Sacrifices' in the afternoon. 

Day 5 | Do the Al Madras trail, either by foot or with horses. Then head to Little Petra and, if you're into this, hike all the way back to the Monastery in main Petra. Drive to Wadi Rum in the evening, it will take a bit less than 2h00. Arriving at the camp, you will most certainly be invited for a night tea by the fire.

Day 6 | Book a jeep tour to the main highlights of Wadi Rum. The Bedouins will generally offer you the choice for tours that last 4, 6 or 8 hours. Drive to Aqaba (1h00) in the evening.

Day 7 | Again: relax or book a diving tour. Having one day extra in Aqaba allows you to visit more than one diving spots without having to worry about flying the next day. 

Day 8 | Diving.

Day 9 | Drive or fly back to Amman to enjoy some food. If you drive, it's the longest journey you will make in Amman and takes about 4h00 for the short way. If you decide to drive back the scenic King's Highway, count 1 or 2h00 extra. Either fly home the same evening or spend the night in Amman and fly home the next day.

Day 10 | One day extra in Amman allows you to do some souvenir shopping in the Suq, enjoy the food-scene and relax at a Shisha-café to end this trip in beauty. Fly home the next morning.

Two weeks in Jordan

Again pretty much the same itinerary but with extra stops to experience even more Jordanian life.

Day 1 | Arrive in Amman and spend the night.

Day 2 | Have some lovely Middle Eastern breakfast for about 3 JD for two and visit the Roman Theatre. Drive to Jerash and Ajloun Castle in the afternoon. Spend the night in Amman again.

Day 3 | Drive to Mount Nebo and Madaba. Spend the night in beautiful Madaba to do one of the archaeological tours. 

Day 4 | Drive from Madaba to the Dead Sea and find a hotel at the coast.

Day 5 | Use the day to have the ultimate Dead Sea experience with the mudding and the sea salt scrub. You could visit one of the Hot Springs (like the Ma'in Hot Springs) while you are here.

Day 6 | Drive to Petra and visit Kerak Castle on the way. Drive the King's Highway (n° 35) as you have the time to take the longer, more scenic route.

Day 7 | Visit the Treasury and the Monastery at slow pace, talk to the Bedouins and enjoy some tea.

Day 8 | Do the Al Kubtha trail in the morning and the 'High Place of Sacrifices' in the afternoon. 

Day 9 | Do the Al Madras trail, either by foot or with horses. Then head to Little Petra and, if you're into this, hike all the way back to the Monastery in main Petra. Drive to Wadi Rum in the evening, it will take a bit less than 2h00. Arriving at the camp, you will most certainly be invited for a night tea by the fire.

Day 10 | Book a jeep tour to the main highlights of Wadi Rum. The Bedouins will generally offer you the choice for tours that last 4, 6 or 8 hours. Stay for the night and go stargazing - there are camps that have special observatories for this purpose.

Day 11 | Drive to Aqaba (1h00) and relax or book a diving tour. Having one day extra in Aqaba allows you to visit more than one diving spots without having to worry about flying the next day. 

Day 12 | Diving and relaxing.

Day 13 | Drive or fly back to Amman in the evening (to allow enough time between the dive and the flight) to enjoy some food. If you drive, it's the longest journey you will make in Amman and takes about 4h00 for the short way. If you decide to take the scenic King's Highway, count 1 or 2h00 extra. Either fly home the same evening or spend the night in Amman and fly home the next day.

Day 14 | One day extra in Amman allows you to do some souvenir shopping in the Suq, enjoy the food-scene and relax at a Shisha-café to end this trip in beauty. Fly home the next morning.

You could also extend your time in Amman and visit some of the Umayyad 'desert castles', East of the capital. 

Given that the Jordan Pass includes over 40 attractions, you can imagine how many things there are to add to these itineraries. 

And if you want to get the 'holy vibes', add the (way too expensive) Baptism Site of Jesus.

In summary

Backpacking in Jordan was one of the best spontaneous ideas we have ever had!

Sure, there are some things that surprise or that we had to get used to. But go there with an open mind and you will definitely fall in love with the country and its people.

Jordan is incredibly fascinating and has so much to offer: beautiful nature, rich cultural treasures, yummy food and (aside from the cheating-part) very welcoming and friendly people.

We will definitely get back one day! And this time, I might know a little more Arabic than I currently do to get around.

I hope you found this (pretty complete) guide useful and feel free to share, comment and pin this post!

As ever,

xx

Cyn

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