Gozo: A Complete Guide To Malta’s Second Island
Most tourists, when visiting Malta, stay on the main island. Not knowing what they're missing by not letting the ferry guide them to picturesque Gozo, Malta's second island! Which is good, as it is far more pleasant to visit a tiny island without mass tourism (especially cruise tourists - don't get me started on that..). Haha.
And Gozo is indeed tiny: 67 km2 (and 30.000 residents) is pretty manageable. Nevertheless, it has a lot to offer. We only spent two nights here and that was definitely not enough!
Regarding the general history, it's obviously very similar to the rest of Malta - read all about it here - but it still has a few particularities.
In this guide, you'll find a few of the highlights that Gozo, Malta's second island, has to offer. This list is far from complete, though. And we can't wait to get back to explore the rest of it.
"Gozo remained an utterly private place, an island in petto - within the breast - and lucky the man who could find the key, turn the lock, and vanish inside."
Nicholas Monsarrat - The Kappillan of Malta (1973)
Practical stuff
Budget
⤀ A round-trip from Luxembourg was around 140€ p.p., booked in May, to get to Valletta. Then, you will obviously need the Ferry, which was 4,65€ a return trip per person. If you ferry across with a car, it's 15,70€ per vehicle. The crossing takes about 25 min.
⤀ Our Boutique B&B in Xaghra was 230€ for 2 nights, breakfast included (read down below).
⤀ Car rental was okay. As I said on the Malta-guide, we paid around 200€ for 7 days in Malta and Gozo, insurance and additional driver included. That is, if you don't count the 34,94€ fine we got for speeding ... (oops).
⤀ Sightseeing was not expensive at all, churches even free to visit. For example, the Cittadella in Victoria had an entrance fee of 5€ which included the Visitor's Centre with a video-show, the Gozo Archaeology Museum, the Nature Museum, the Old Prisons and the Gran Castello Historic House (see below for more details).
Best time to visit
We went the first week of September, which was perfect: less crowded than during summer holidays but still hot enough to have a swim in the sea.
First we did 5 days on the main island of Malta, then 2 more on Gozo - not enough!
We saw a few whirlwinds above the sea too but I don't know if that's related to the season - was cool to see.
Whirlwind above Gozo
Getting around
We rented a car with First and it went very well, no complains. Having a car comes in handy as public transportation is not so frequent on the tiny island.
Distances are even more manageable than on Malta as the island thanks to the size of the island.
Same as Malta island: Driving is on the left due to British heritage
Where to stay
We would definitely recommend Xaghra, as it is Gozo's second biggest town and very cute. I'd say it's very handy as you are close to the main attractions but, yeah. You're on Gozo. So, EVERYTHING is close-by, haha.
We stayed at D Golden Valley Boutique & Breakfast. The location was perfect, but the price a bit high. The views on the 'Cittadella' were awesome (read about the Cittadella below).
View on the Cittadella on the far left
Pool view goals
But if you're looking for something really typical, we would recommend one of the refurbished farmhouses. We learned about that too late. You can even rent some with private pool!
They range from 80 to 300€ per night. Just look for 'Farmhouse' on the map below.
The language
As for Malta, the primary one is Maltese, a semitic language (the only one in Europe) and a latinised variety of historic Arabic.
English serves as second language, being an anglo-saxon remnant of the British Empire that dominated them for 150 years - hence the red phone booths everywhere.
The food
Malta and Gozo's cuisine is influenced by the almost-neighbour Sicily, meaning a lot of pasta, pizza and sweet desserts. The pastizzi, puff-pastries filled with either ricotta-cheese or mushy peas are famous. Very tasty and ideal as a snack.
Unfortunately, we kind of forgot to taste their speciality, fenkata, a rabbit ragout. In addition to the cited ones, Gozo's speciality would be the ftira, a traditional pizza with tomatoes and potatoes.
As it's Mediterranean cuisine, it was very good for my guts!
The culture
Lots of archaeological sites, of course. But because we already visited so many on the main island, we focused on the other highlights which you can read all about below ☟
Beautiful Gozitan views
Sightseeing: culture & nature
- Xaghra and Our Lady of Victories
Well, just like the Malta Craft Beer Festival in Valletta, this wasn't planned!
We didn't know that on the exact date that we would be in Xaghra, they would have their big 'Feast of Our Lady of Victories'. The city's Patron is the Maria Bambina, the church being dedicated to the birth of the Virgin Mary.
Xaghra church lit
Xaghra street decorations
Although neither of us is really religious, it was pretty cool to watch people getting so exited. And everything was beautifully decorated, with lights everywhere and fireworks to end it all. Fireworks! I LOVE fireworks!!
It takes place every year beginning of September (although probably not in 2020 - Covid19 and all that).
- Salt Pans
Gozo's northern coast is characterised by the numerous salt pans carved in the rock, still used today. This tradition of salt production is around 350 years old and the knowledge is passed on from generation to generation.
We were a bit too late to watch the Gozitanos actually scrap off the salt crystals collected in the pans, as this work occurs during the hot summer months when the trapped sea water evaporates.
The salt is then stored in caves carved in the rock as well and sold either to companies or tourist - like us! We bought Gozitan salt for the whole family..
The old, toothless man sitting in his tiny house up the hill near the salt pans told us exactly how the whole procedure works - showing us black and white pictures from back when he was young.
Salt pans at Xwejni Bay
Still salt pans
And beautiful sea
Look at the beautiful colours
- Wied Il Ghasri
The Ghasri-Valley is a beautiful nature spot! It starts with a gorge filled with sea water that leads to steep cliffs and out to the open sea. In the gorge itself you'll find a secluded bay, perfect for swimming and snorkelling. There are also numerous underwater-caves, a dream for divers.
It took a while before we found the entrance to the bay, we were too distracted by the impressive views from the top of the cliffs.
Very agitated sea that day
View from the cliffs to the entry of the gorge
The gorge where the sea changes colour
- Azure Window
This used to be Gozo's symbol! An impressive natural arch above the sea. It was so famous, it figured in numerous film and tv show-productions.
Epic scenes have been filmed here, amongst which: the famous wedding of Khaleesi and Khal Drogo in Game of Thrones (I watched the whole series for the first time last year - huge fan!).
Unfortunately, a heavy storm destroyed the whole thing in 2017. It was already destabilised from erosion due to wind and sea-water. Plus: people kept climbing on top of it. So it was just a matter of time for the cracks to cause the complete collapse of the rock formation.
I don't know if all the guides for Malta and specifically Gozo have been updated by now? I shall hope so.
This is also a known diving spot as the Blue Hole that lies underneath it offers magnificent sights of marine wildlife. We'll definitely get back once we have our diver's licence.
Still a nice view, I'd say. What do you reckon? At least you get a better view on the cliffs that hide behind it, right?
Read on for a nice alternative!
Nothing left of the impressive arch
- Wied Il Mielah
This relatively unknown natural arch is located to the north-east of the Azure window. It doesn't stand out like the former one and maybe that's why people don't specifically look for it.
In my opinion, this arch is equally impressive, especially with strong winds causing big waves to crash against it from below.
From the plateau, there's a narrow stairway leading to the base of the arch. We actually heard that you can do abseiling from the arch down to the water, that's why we actively looked for it.
According to tourist sites, you still can. But we were there in September 2019 and the acces was prohibited.
Getting down to the base, you could easily see why: rocks had broken off from the plateau and there are cracks forming in that arch as well.
- Dwejra Bay & Fungus Rock
This is one of the nicest sunset spots on Gozo: Dwejra Bay. The cragged coastline gives a dramatic feel to the scenery and the sun sets on the seaside. This is magical!
The whole area is actually a protected natural reserve with a particular rock standing out on the sea, the Fungus Rock.
That rock has a history of its own: It was said to be the host of a very powerful healing plant (also thought to be the best aphrodisiac E.V.E.R.): the Cynomorium or 'Maltese Fungus' - which is funny, because it's not a fungus at all.
Anyways, people would constantly climb on that thing just to get that plant, to a point that the knights of the Order of St. John had to prohibit and guard the access to the rock.
Scientists now know that the plant doesn't have any medicinal property whatsoever.
The Maltese even transformed a watchtower on top of the plateau to guard the rock.
The Dwejra Tower was actually built in the 17th century to defend the coastline from Turkish corsairs and was part of a whole series of towers along the coastline called the 'Lascaris towers', erected under Grandmaster Jean de Lascaris-Castellar.
Fungus Rock in Dwejra Bay at the beginning of the sunset
- Cittadella in Victoria
Known in Maltese as 'Il Kastell', the Cittadella is a fortress located in Victoria - the 'other Rabat' (for the first one, read the Malta-guide) - the capital of Gozo.
The site has always been densely populated as previous occupations include a Roman Akropolis and a medieval castle, before the Order of St. John took over the Maltese archipel in 1530 and rebuilt it into the fortress you can visit today.
The complex underwent extensive restaurations between 2007 and 2014 and is a must-see of Gozo.
As I previously stated, you can visit the whole thing for as little as 5€. And this ticket includes:
⤀ the Visitor's Centre with a really well made video-show, projected on the walls all around you
⤀ the Gozo Archaeology Museum, which holds a few very interesting artifacts
⤀ the Nature Museum
⤀ the Old Prisons which had Grandmaster Jean de La Vallette, founder of Malta's capital city, as an inmate
⤀ the Gran Castello Historic House, which is basically a typical Gozitan house inside the fortress, where they tried to show what it looked like back when there were actual residents. It's a bit cheesy and outdated but I thought it was still cute.
The baroque church at the center of the fortress
Beautiful Cittadella with the massive walls
It is so relaxing to stroll through the narrow streets. And at the same time, it made me shiver to think how crammed the houses were during attacks and sieges when people from outside of the walls came to seek refuge inside.
1551 was one of those moments, when the island was captured by the Ottomans. Around 6000 residents were displaced to serve as slaves - which basically amounted to the depopulation of Gozo.
I won't go further with the historic details - the archaeologist in me gets carried away sometimes. But I found it fascinating! And I really recommend geting a guide if you're interested in the whole story.
Swimming and relaxing: best beaches
As we were only here for two days (seriously, I can't stress this enough: you need more than two days on Gozo!!), we didn't spend hours and hours on the beach. Still, we tried to have a quick rest on the most picturesque ones. Et voilà, here they are:
- Xlendi Bay
Xlendi is a teeny tiny town in a bay enclosed by cliffs (you get kind of a mini-Fjord-feeling) and doesn't have a lot to offer besides a few guesthouses, restaurants and bars and a beach. Oh, and another tower, of course.
We didn't actually swim here but we did climb up one side of the cliff, only to descend on the other side, down into a tiny natural cave with an opening and a magnificent view (see picture below).
To get there: when you look out to the sea from the beach, head to your right to the boat house, meaning you have to walk behind the little boat-wharf, to get to the stairways going up the cliffs. It looks like nothing but it's super cute on the other side!
View from the 'secret' cave to the sea
- Ramla Bay
A very relaxing orange-coloured sand beach, enclosed by two mesas (= flat-topped elevations) in the north-eastern part of the island. It is very touristy because it's known to be 'Gozo's top beach' but it's rather calm in September. It was really easy to find a nice spot for sunbathing and swimming - the water had the perfect temperature.
Right above the bay is the so-called 'Calypso-cave'. According to legend, it's where Odysseus spent seven years with the nymphe Calypso. Normally, you can visit the cave but when we got there, it was all closed due to the danger of rock slides.
Ramla Bay Beach from above
- Dwejra Bay
The same as cited under the must-sees.
We bought two bottles of Cisk at a kiosk near the Azure window and sat down on the plateau facing the Fungus Rock, spending the evening admiring the beautiful Gozitan sunset.
I really recommend doing this but please: leave no trash behind!!
Beautiful Maltese sunset in Dwejra Bay
Here's a little overview where all the sites are located on the island:
We hope you enjoyed this mini-guide for a mini-holiday on the tiny island of Gozo. Don't forget to click here for our complete Malta-guide and pin this article if you like.
Oh, and feel free to use the comment function down below for your thoughts or tips on Gozo 🙂
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