During our world trip, after an intense road trip through Costa Rica (unfortunately getting mugged in San José), we flew to Mexico to visit a dear friend and, thanks to her, got to explore the fascinating things to see and do in Guanajuato.
Before this trip, we had never been to Central Mexico. However, experiencing Guanajuato with a local made me fall in love with the country again, after having had a nasty encounter with corrupted police officers when I visited years ago.
The city of Guanajuato instantly charms with its colourful houses spiralling down narrow and winding streets towards the historic heart.
A former mining town, the most important one in the colonial era, Guanajuato managed to keep the multi-coloured colonial centre free from noisy traffic thanks to a unique tunnel system.
Add to this several charming squares, inviting you to relax underneath trees providing the most welcome shade, and delicious Mexican food and your city trip is complete.
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What And Where Is Guanajuato?
Guanajuato City in a nutshell
Guanajuato is the capital city of the state of Guanajuato in Central Mexico
The Spanish founded the city at the beginning of the 16th century, at an altitude of 2000 m above sea level
Guanajuato is one of the famous silver-mining towns in Mexico that were partly responsible for Spain's wealth in the early modern era
The city of roughly 195.000 inhabitants sits on a series of tunnels that were once river beds and canals but now keep the historic centre clear of road traffic
Guanajuato's historic city centre, with its colonial mansions and churches, was named UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988
One of the city's famous food products is the Cajeta, a sort of "dulce de leche" but made with goat milk
Guanajuato is a lively, culturally active and socially connected city that lives by day, and even more by night. That is when university students (local and foreign) form the callejoneadas (musical groups) that mingle with the more professional mariachi to sing and dance through the night while enjoying micheladas and good music.
If you happen to visit in October, like we did during our gap year as a couple, you will be lucky enough to experience the most famous theatre festival of the country, the Cervantino, dedicated to this ancient art and the author Cervantès, the inventor of the notorious Don Quijote.
Here's what our suggested itinerary combining the best things to do in Guanajuato looks like:
1. - Start With One Of The Absolute Best Things To Do in Guanajuato: Admire The City From Above
Monumento Al Pípila
This is probably the first and most impressive thing to do when arriving in Guanajuato: getting up to the brilliant viewpoint next to the Monumento Al Pípila.
You do so either by arriving by car or bus (depending on how you travel in Mexico) and parking it at the monument, or by taking the funicular at the station located right behind the Teatro Juárez mentioned below.
Happily enjoying the view over gorgeous Guanajuato
You should do this activity at least twice: once during the day to appreciate the hundreds of colours flashing in the sunlight, and once in the evening when these same colours get a different glow from the sunset.
It is one of the most spectacular city views I've ever seen.
Up here, there is also the Monumento Al Pípila, a sandstone statue of a man holding a torch or flame in his extended arm. Inaugurated in 1939, it represents Juan José de los Reyes Martinez, a hero of the Mexican War of Independence (19th century), who set fire to a barn where the Spanish were hiding.
However, his existence has never entirely been proven.
The Monumento Al Pípila viewpoint is located here.
El Pípila
Quick info - Funicular to Monumento El Pípila
Opening times:
Mon-Sat 8 am - 9.45 pm
Sat 9 am - 8.45 pm
Sun 10 am - 8.45 pm
Entry fee: about 1.80 € one-way (3.60 € return ticket)
In the centre, you will find the funicular behind Teatro Juárez
Down To Guanajuato's Colonial Heart
From here, walk down the winding and narrow Ladera a San Miguel (followed by the Subida a San Miguel) until you reach Guanajuato's historic city centre.
Along the way, admire the gorgeous graffiti art, following the multi-coloured vibe of the city.
Marvellous art everywhere you go
After Subida a San Miguel, the street turns into Pochote. At the end of this street, head right into De Los Dolores, then left to Del Protrero. Here you'll find the gorgeous red Templo de San Francisco (18th century baroque church).
Follow down Manuel Doblado street, and you'll get to a quiet little square with a statue that probably feels familiar if you've seen Pixar's Coco: Guanajuato's streets inspired various scenes of the movie, and so did the statue you'll notice on the Plaza Del Ropero. Mexican singer Jorge Negrete (born in Guanajuato) inspired the statue of Miguel's hero Ernesto de la Cruz.
Find the Templo de San Francisco here and the Plaza Del Ropero here.
Can you spot "Ernesto de la Cruz" aka Jorge Negrete?
2. - Marvel at the ceiling of Teatro Juárez & chill in the Jardín de la Union
Guanajuato And The Theatre
Now it's time to head deeper into Guanajuato's historic city centre, past dozens of restaurants and charming little shops.
What we are looking for here is the magnificent Teatro Juárez.
As mentioned above, Guanajuato is famous for its theatre scene and annually hosts the "Festival Internacional Cervantino", sponsoring cultural and artistic events duringOctober.
Cervantès is even represented here with an unmistakable Don Quijote de la Mancha statue, next to the Museo ex Convento Dieguino hosting the ruins of an excavated 17th-century cloister.
Now to the Teatro Juárez: opened in 1903, this neoclassical building with a balustrade carrying muses harbours a spectacular hall in the Mozarabic style (visibly inspired by Granada's marvellous Alhambra) and a surprising smoking room with Art Nouveau elements.
It is still in use, though not every day.
Posters indicate the current program and tickets cost between 2.50 and 5.00 €.
The Teatro Juárez can be found here on Google Maps.
Teatro Juárez: Look at the details!
Quick info - Teatro Juárez
Opening times:
Tue-Sun 10.00 am - 1.45 pm and 5 pm - 7.45 pm
Closed on Mondays
Entry fee: 1.80 €; tickets for a show range between 2.50 € and 5.00 €
A Refreshing Break At The Jardín De La Unión
Across the street, you'll find the Jardín de la Unión, considered by many to be one of the best things to do in Guanajuato.
This charming little shaded square, thanks to thick bay trees covering it, is a popular meeting place for all kinds of people, locals and tourists alike.
Music fills the air in the evenings, and several restaurants and cafes have set their terraces along the square. It's also here that the students will meet up to form their callejoneadas mentioned above. These little musical groups will then wander through the city, sometimes resembling a procession, with people aligning behind them and joining in the singing.
3. - Solemnly Visit The Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato
The bright yellow facade of the 17th-century Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato is the main eye-catcher of the city, visible from every viewpoint but also from many corners of the city.
With its exquisite interior, rich ornamentation, paintings and statues, the Basílica is undeniably one of the most beautiful in Central Mexico.
Not to miss!
Here's where you'll find the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato.
Visible from every corner: Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato
Right next to this obvious attraction is one of the best restaurants in Guanajuato, according to our friend Lizbette: Restaurant Truco 7.
Try the enchiladas three ways with salsa verde, salsa roja and mole, a delicious and spicy chocolate-based sauce that is very prominent in Mexican cuisine.
Quick info - Basílica Colegiata De Nuestra Señora De Guanajuato
Opening times:
Mon-Sun 10.00 am - 5.00 pm
Dress decently
Entry fee: free
4. - Get your art dose at the Diego Rivera House Museum
Diego Rivera was a painter born and raised in Guanajuato who helped start the mural movement in the country.
His third wife was none other than fellow artist Frida Kahlo. If you haven't heard of Diego, you have undoubtedly heard of her.
The museum is set inside the house where Diego spent his childhood. While the museum isn't that spectacular, it has an interesting collection depicting Diego's eventful life and artistic evolution through pictures and paintings, showing his hither and thither between Cubism, Naive Art, Expressionism and so on.
Worth a visit if you are into that kind of art, check the location out here.
Quick info - Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Opening times:
Tue-Sat 10.00 am - 7.00 pm
Sun 10.00 am - 3.00 pm
Closed on Mondays
Entry fee: 1.55 €
5. - Have a cheesy moment at the Callejón del Beso and relax at the charming Plazuela San Fernando
"I know a thing you absolutely must do when visiting Guanajuato as a couple!" said Lizbette. "It's so cheesy, but you gotta do it!"
That thing was a kiss on the 3rd step of the (in)famous Callejón del Beso, underneath two balconies of opposite houses less than one meter apart, one of the (almost) free activities that are very popular in Guanajuato.
The "obligatory" kiss at the Callejón del Beso
Legend has it that Carmen and Don Carlos had a forbidden love affair thanks to these balconies - an affair that ended badly, though.
Don't kiss, and you will have (at least) seven years of bad luck.
Or so they say.
We didn't want to risk anything, so we kissed both underneath AND on one of the balconies. Yes, someone invites you inside the house to get up and will naturally ask for a few pesos.
If you require refreshment after all the kissing, the romantic Plazuela San Fernando is close by, with terraces and refreshing shade, surrounded by vividly coloured colonial mansions. It's the quieter counterpart to the formerly cited Jardín de la Unión.
A bit of peace and quiet at the Plazuela San Fernando
6. - Fill Up On Souvenirs At Mercado Hidalgo
Inside this early 20th-century structure is the Mercado Hidalgo, very loved by the locals for their weekly shopping.
The building alone is worth a visit, a heavily ornamented iron frame from the end of the industrial era.
The organisation inside is very chaotic - part of the charm - and they sell clothes and souvenirs primarily, but a few food stalls are excellent if you want a bite on the go. Choose the ones where the queue is the longest.
"Hidalgo" comes from a priest with the same name who had an important role during the Mexican War of Independence.
The entrance of Mercado Hidalgo
From here, we suggest you look for the nearest bus station to get to our next point of interest. It is only 1.3 km from the market, but it's nearly all uphill.
Quick info - Mercado Hidalgo
Opening times:
Mon-Sun 9.00 am - 5.00 pm
Entry fee: depends on how much you buy
7. - The Creepiest Thing To Do in Guanajuato: the Museo de las Momias de Guanajuato
Digging Up The Dead...
Let us issue a warning here: this is not for the faint of heart.
In my job as an archaeologist, I come across dead bodies all the time - I'm excavating several early medieval cemeteries as we speak.
But Guanajuato's Mummy Museum hits differently.
These individuals were buried initially around 1833 (cholera seemingly had something to do with it), but exhumated some fifty years later, most likely as a reaction to a new tax on "perpetual" burial.
The best-preserved individuals, naturally mummified thanks to Guanajuato's climate, were stored in a chamber that quickly attracted visitors and ultimately became a proper museum for the Mommies of Guanajuato.
More than one hundred mummies are on display.
Visiting the Mommies of Guanajuato
"My family told me that one of them is actually my ancestor, some great-granduncle", Lizbette explained. However, she couldn't tell which one exactly.
Some are said to have been buried alive - hence the facial expression (though this could be part of the natural decaying process) - by being mistaken for dead.
Again: this is not for sensitive souls, but if you don't mind mummies in general or are just curious about death and how the human body reacts after it (that's the scientific aspect that I find so fascinating), this is certainly an exciting thing to do in Guanajuato.
The fact is, the people of Guanajuato are proud of their mummies; so proud, that they get them out of their museum once a year to put them on display, decorated, inside the city's tunnels for the Día de Muertos celebrations in Guanajuato.
Speaking of Día de Muertos: if you can, visit Guanajuato around November 1st. It is very well known that all of Mexico celebrates this day like nowhere else in the world, but here they have actual dead people who are an intrinsic part of the festivities.
There are also several Catrína parades (which unfortunately got cancelled because of the pandemic when we were visiting) and competitions for the best Catrína.
Celebrating Día De Muertos in Guanajuato
What Else Is There To Do Around Guanajuato City?
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende, about 76 km from Guanajuato, deserves a whole blog post, so here is only a condensed image of the most picturesque town in Mexico.
This gorgeous colonial town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008.
Also named "El Corazón de Mexico", - the heart symbol is everywhere! - San Miguel de Allende was the backdrop for almost every movie supposed to depict a Mexican town.
When we visited, it was right before Día de Muertos, so we had the joy of seeing beautifully decorated altars with pan de muertos and lots of dulces and gorgeous Catrínas everywhere.
There is also the Fabrica La Aurora to check out, a former textile factory that now hosts several art and design galleries, giving a good and realistic image of Mexican tradition, according to our (Mexican) friend.
The downside of such a beautiful town: lots of tourists during the high season, many retired gringos owning places, and overpriced restaurants.
Things To Know Before Visiting Guanajuato City
How to get around in G?
Primarily by foot for all the visits we suggest here, but also by bus if you need to reach attractions like the Mummy museum or the silver mines that are a bit away from the historic centre.
Yes. At least the historic city centre. As with Mexico in general, stay in the touristy areas, and you will be fine.
Is it recommended to drive in Guanajuato?
No. The tunnel system is excellent for keeping the centre clear of traffic, but it's very confusing when you are not used to it. But leaving the car at one of the bigger parking lots outside the historic area is possible.
All of our suggested attractions are within walking distance from each other - except for the Mummy Museum.
Is Guanajuato Worth Visiting?
A big YES from us! Even without a local guide (i.e. our lovely friend Lizbette, who happens to live in Celaya, nearby Guanajuato), Guanajuato is a beautiful, versatile and bustling city.
Quite frankly, I was so into this vibe that I wished I had this option for my student exchange program back in the day - though I won't complain as I got to have this experience in Barcelona.
Central Mexico, in general, had us charmed from the beginning with its history, the fascinating culture and the exquisite food. But Guanajuato does head the table.
I hope you had fun reading through our (condensed) list of things to do in Guanajuato, and feel free to comment with suggestions, questions, or remarks.
Also, don't hesitate to pin and share this post for others to see.
As ever,
xx
Cyn
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