3 Days in Valencia: A Complete Guide to History, Entertainment and Delicious Food
When we decided to head down to Valencia for 3 days during our road trip in Catalonia, we were wondering if it'd be too much.
From what we had heard, even though the city is quite popular in general, Valencia isn’t considered a top tourist destination.
But it turns out: Valencia has many things to offer, ranging from fascinating historic buildings and attractive museums over entertaining festivals to an intriguing (and delicious) food-scene.
Strolling through the busy streets framed by colourful facades, breathing in the orange blossom-scented air and feeling the light breeze coming from the sea: what better way to explore a city.
Here's our full guide on how to spend 3 pretty awesome days in Valencia!
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What and where is Valencia?
Valencia in a nutshell
How to get around in Valencia
By Bus | It's fast, there are many stops everywhere in the city and it's reasonably priced: 1,50 € one-way but with the possibility to get Bono-cards for ten trips or even one, two or three days. The Bono Transbordo combines bus, metro, and tramway. Better carry a map of the stops as there are none inside of the bus and you have to signal that you want the bus to stop. Operating from 7 am to 10.20 pm. More details on the EMT-site.
By Metro & Tramway | 9 lines throughout the city, operating until 11.30 pm during the week and 2.30 am on weekends and holidays; 1,50 € one-way for zone A; there is also a possibility to purchase the Bono Metro 10 for ten trips. The Bono Transbordo combines bus, metro, and tramway.
By Taxi | There are plenty of taxis available and they are reasonably priced; a good alternative when travelling at night as public transports close quite early.
By Car | Not really recommended as parking spots in Valencia are scarce and expensive. Better use public transportation, it works better and is a lot cheaper (and safer).
Walk | Still the best way to really know a city.
Traveller's tip:
I used to despise people getting on the red or green Hop On / Hop Off busses to visit a city.
But my private finance expert Sebi persuaded me to get the 48h-ticket for the red one at 20 €, as it was a lot cheaper than buying all the tickets for bus/metro/tram separately.
The route is well-conceived and even though the busses are a bit rusty and the headphones cheap, they do get you to every major spot in the city, including far-away places like the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciènces, which is perfect when visiting Valencia in only three days.
Where to stay for three days in Valencia
For our three days in Valencia, we wanted something close to the historic centre but not inside of it as we needed a safe parking lot for our car. After a bad experience in Milan, we needed it to be part of the accommodation itself and that's hard to find in the historic centre.
We chose a little apartment from the Parker The Urban Flats: ideally located, reasonably sized, very clean and quiet and still within walking distance from Valencia's heart. The parking space is extra and you pay per day, but that's how it is in general in Valencia.
Here are some other well-rated possibilities near the historic centre that would be in the same price range:
Catalina Suites | 200 m from the Mercat Central and San Nicolás church; very friendly staff.
MD Design Hotel - Portal del Real | Cosy, soundproof and modern rooms with a shared sundeck and a lovely view.
Opera House Valencia B&B | A bit further away from the historic centre but with beautiful rooms and a big shared pool.
What to do in three days in Valencia?
If you want to make the best out of the three days, there is a València Tourist Card that allows you to use all of the means of public transport in zones A, B, C and D and gives you either free entry or at least a discount for several museums, attractions and shops.
Cost: 15 € for one, 20 € for two and 25 € for three days in Valencia.
On the arrival day - soak it all in
First impressions
Upon arriving from the busy highway, greeted by a big boulevard framed with swaying palm trees and a weird-looking giant piece of art, the coastal flair was immediately sensible.
The first thing we did, obviously, was check in to our apartment at the Parker The Urban Flats in order to quickly get rid of our car after having driven several hours in a row.
Heading straight towards the historic heart of the city, what hit us first was this famous blend of historical, mostly neo-classical facades, punctuated with modern, colourful buildings.
Colour meets austerity
One might think that mixing these architectural styles would clash but, on the contrary, they do form a sort of harmony.
Some views felt familiar, reminiscent of my favourite city Barcelona, while other corners were totally surprising. Because we were still a bit tired from the long drive, we had a quick pintxos-and-beer-break at Tapeando.
Quick break at Tapeando
From the Mercat Central to the Plaça de la Virgen
This is the area where locals and tourists mix. A lovely neighbourhood to just walk, shop or get some delicious food before reaching Valencia's spiritual heart, the Plaça de la Virgen.
We had the opportunity to witness Valencia's most important celebration: the 'Our Lady of the Forsaken Festival'.
This festival takes place every year on the second weekend in May and the whole city celebrates its patron Saint, La Mare de Déu dels Desemparats ('the lady of the forsaken'), affectionately called La Geperudeta, 'the little hunchback' due to the hunched posture of the statue.
On this occasion, the streets are heavily decorated, people dress up in traditional, richly embroidered costumes with expensive jewellery and sophisticated hairstyles, and processions, concerts and masses take place several times a day during the whole weekend.
Valencianas getting ready for the procession
Looking for someplace to eat: restaurant Vuelve Carolina
After enjoying some interesting sights linked to the festivities, we walked past the beautiful Plaça de Sant Nicolau with its bright orange front, to spoil ourselves with a fancy dinner at Vuelve Carolina, owned by a famous three-starred chef.
Admittedly, the entrees on the house and the traditional Valencian paella (with chicken, rabbit and beans) were quite tasty, but a bit expensive and we felt slightly underdressed even though sitting at the bar of the exquisitely decorated restaurant.
Loved the decor at Vuelve Carolina
The cheesecake 'Carolina's style' was sublime but my favourite part was the Camila cocktail with a lime and truffle foam - that was a first for me, but it was strangely delicious.
If you have even more money to spare, chef Quique has other restaurants in Valencia, El Poblet (2 stars) and Llisa Negra.
Good to know: opening times of restaurants in Valencia
If you arrive on a Sunday or a Monday, beware that restaurants are often closed on these days.
Don't expect to find them open between 4 pm and 6.30 pm either as it's siesta time to prepare for the long evenings.
Breakfast is generally served no earlier than 9 am and dinner usually only starts at 9 pm.
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Day 1 - Visiting Valencia's historic heart
After a delicious breakfast with eggs Benedict and fresh fruit, good coffee served in the cutest mugs and some sinful baked goods at the Brunch Corner - La Virgen, we started the day with a visit to the impressive cathedral, given that we were already here, at the Plaça de la Virgen.
What follows is a tour of Valencia's major historic highlights, including the baroque San Nicolau church, the city's former silk exchange and the vivid marketplace.
Catedral
This massive cathedral was built between the 13th and the 15th century and replaced a mosque located here during the Arabic occupation. The whole gothic ensemble was heavily renovated during the 18th century, which results in a strange look from the outside, each facing bearing a different style.
The basilica on the left, the cathedral on the right
There is a possibility to get up the bell tower called La Miguelete for a lovely view of the oldest parts of the city.
Another highlight is the 'chapel of the Holy Chalice' which is supposed to contain ... the Holy Grail. But every major church in the world claims that - must have been a massive production back then.
Also, check out the museum of the cathedral to admire numerous religious artefacts ranging from the 1st to the 20th century.
Quick info - Catedral
Opening times:
Entry fee: 8 € (cathedral + museum + audioguide)
When we visited, the place was packed with people because one of the several processions of the 'Our Lady of the Forsaken Festival' just finished and the statue was put on display in the centre of the church.
People were literally climbing up the pedestal to kiss it and the priest spent about half an hour telling them to please sit down so he could finally start mass.
There is a fine line between pious worship and irrational fanaticism.
Inside the cathedral, the statue of the Virgin is somewhere on the right - try to find it...
Basílica de la Virgen de los Desemparados
Built in the 17th century, this is where the hunched statue of Mary normally resides when she's not out on a procession to then be exhibited inside of the previously mentioned cathedral.
This basilica is much smaller than the cathedral and much more baroque with an impressive painted dome from 1701. Roman stones, some with inscriptions, have been used on the facade because excavations had shown that this is where Valencia's antique Roman forum was located.
The most peculiar element here is the little windowed gallery above the street between both buildings, connecting this basílica minor to the mighty cathedral.
Well connected basilica
Quick info - Basílica de la Virgen de los Desemparados
Opening times:
Entry fee: free
San Nicolau de Bari i Sant Pere Màrtir
Heading west, you get to the Església Sant Nicolau de Bari i Sant Pere Màrtir - or just 'San Nicolau' - one of Valencia's oldest churches.
It was also built on top of an ancient mosque during the 13th century but got its current looks during the 15th century, which resulted in a gothic/baroque mix.
The church is chock-full of flamboyant frescoes from the late 17th century, each one telling a different story and all of them somehow linked together. I'll spare you the details. Just get the audio guide on your phone, there are some really interesting anecdotes.
Baroque at its best
The Valencianos affectionately call this church the 'Sixtine Chapel of Valencia' and they are not wrong about that: the frescoes at Rome's Sixtine Chapel cover an area of 800 m² whereas here you get 2000 m²!
Try to find the painter of the frescoes and his sponsor and the little corner where the former gothic paintings are hidden underneath the newer ones.
Quick info - San Nicolau de Bari i Sant Pere Màrtir
Opening times:
Entry fee: 7 € with audio guide, 8 € with (human) guide; possibility for a combi-ticket with the Museu de la Seda 8 €
Good to know: the entrance is a bit hidden in the Carrer dels Cavallers and in high season there is probably a waiting queue to get inside.
Have a quick break at the historic Café Sant Jaume with it's quirky black and white checkered floors and appearance of an old apothecary (because it used to be one!) before continuing your tour.
After all this history/churchy/baroque sensory overload, you will probably need it.
La Llotja & Museu de la Seda
Built in the 15th century, the Llotja is a noble looking Gothic complex that used to be of great economic importance as it was Valencia's silk exchange.
It's also the most important civil monument in the original Gothic style in Europe!
Inside the main function room with the impressive ceiling
The fine sculptures on the outside arches are admirable and inside you will find a fairy-tale-looking hall with twisted columns, function rooms with impressive wooden ceilings with lots of details to be discovered and the ancient storage depot with beautiful vaults.
Take a moment to sit on a bench of the inside court to smell the orange trees.
The inside court is rather inviting
If you want to dive deeper into the history of silk trading in Valencia - the city is the capital of the UNESCO-protected Silk Route - check out the Museu de la Seda, about 500 m down south from the LLotja.
Quick info - La LLotja & Museu de la Seda
Opening times of La Llotja
Entry fee: 2 €; free on Sundays and public holidays; audio guide 3 €
Opening times of the Museu de la Seda
Entry fee: 7 €, audio guide included (Spanish & English); 8 € with guide; combi-ticket with the San Nicolau church 8 €
Mercat Central
Valencia's Mercat Central is located on the square that had been the main marketplace since the 19th century but the newly built Nou Mercat from 1840 quickly proved to be too small for its purpose.
And so the actual Mercat Central was built in the 1920s with a massive iron frame, lots of ceramics, glass and bricks, all in an elegant Art Nouveau style.
The grand Art Nouveau market hall
It is one of the biggest roofed markets in Europe (about 8000 m²!) and you will find everything ranging from fresh sea food, vegetables, fruit, over meat products and poultry to little food stalls where you can enjoy some freshly prepared tapas.
The vibe resembles that of Barcelona's Boquería but then in a much bigger and open space.
Quick info - Mercat Central
Opening times:
Entry fee: free
La Marina / Playa de Las Arenas - puente de las flores
Spend the rest of the day on Valencia's beach, Playa de Las Arenas near the Marina, sipping a refreshing Agua de Valencia (or whatever you choose) and enjoying the calming sounds of the sea.
Playa de las Arenas seen from the wave-breaker
For a bit more sun protection, head into the Jardí del Túria, a long stretching park that follows an ancient river bed.
The puente de las flores is a particularly beautiful spot. Choose a bench somewhere near a tree (for some shade) and relax.
Then get back to the periphery of the Ciutat Vella to blissfully end the day.
Puente de las flores that really deserves its name
Day 2 - Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciènces
We started the second of our 3 days in Valencia with a delicious breakfast at the Savoiardi, inside an old Capitol cinema converted into a shared space for different restaurants: breakfast and cake at the Savoiardi, meat at the Fitzgerald Burger Company and pasta at Muerde la Pasta.
In love with the Art Deco interior of the Savoiardi
Given that I am a huge fan of the Art Deco style, I didn't know where to look first. But the mouthwatering-looking cakes quickly captured all of my attention.
And please, even if you don't have to go: check out the toilets downstairs!!
Feels so fancy to wash hands here
After this delicious surprise, we took our Hop On / Hop Off bus (I know...) to get to our next highlight: the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciènces.
The future awaits
It doesn't get any more futuristic than this.
The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciénces is an extraterrestrial-looking complex designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the same one who conceived the new World Trade Center station in New York.
Other works of this genius include the train station of Liège-Guillemins in Belgium, that even served as the inspiration for an alien city in Marvel's Guardians of the Galaxy.
It's no wonder that this complex here seems to transport you to outer space as well.
Part of the impressive complex
The 'City of the Arts and Sciences' is just that: a city that comprises the Hemisféric (a huge hall that contains a cinema and a planetarium), the Museu de les Ciènces Príncipe Felipe (a very didactic and interactive science museum), the Oceanogràfic (the biggest aquarium in Europe), and the Palau de les Arts (an event hall for theatre, opera, etc.).
Europe's biggest aquarium: the Oceanogràfic
Even if you only have 3 days in Valencia, visiting the Ciutat is a must - there is nothing comparable in the world - and in particular the Oceanogràfic.
With 110 000 m², 45 000 animals and more than 42 million litres of water, it is by far the biggest oceanographic park in Europe.
Each building represents another aquatic environment: the Mediterranean, the Wetlands, Temperate and Tropical Seas, the Antarctic and Arctic, Islands and the Red Sea.
Flamingos chilling at the Oceanogràfic
It is an active research centre and serves educational purposes at the same time.
The only downside is that sometimes, even in Europe's biggest aquarium, the space reserved for certain animals is way too small. The beluga has a rather tiny pool (compared to the size of the mammal) and doesn't look very happy all alone in there...
Also: they offer dolphin shows several times a day and that's something I can't approve of. We didn't watch it.
Ultimately, we prefer to watch sea-creatures in their natural habitat like we did on the island Fakarava in French Polynesia.
But there is a funny sub-aquatic restaurant, if you still want to eat fish after your visit.
Quick info - Oceanogràfic
Opening times:
Entry fee: 31,30 €, audio-guide for 3,70 € (5 € for two)
There are combination-tickets with the other elements of the complex. Find the information here.
Day 3 - Valencia's more recent history & the beach
Another day in Valencia, another yummy breakfast: the Federal Café is a cool, very retro-looking cafe with high ceilings that serves some of the best eggs Benedict we ever had.
Sebi savouring his coffee at Federal Café
This is actually a chain of cafés you find in several cities throughout Spain but of course that doesn't make the food less tasty.
Oficina de Correos - Plaza de Toros - Estación Norte
Our last day is a little tour past notable buildings in Valencia, a tour that can easily be combined with a bit of shopping if that's your thing.
Oficina de Correos | The first stop is Valencia's post office on the busy Plaça de l'Ayuntament: this glorious building was inaugurated in 1923 and still serves as the central post office. The visit is free and you can admire the impressive glass couple in the middle of a big hall with separate offices all around.
Valencia's grand post office
Plaza de Toros | Officially named Plaça de bous de València, this bullfight-arena was built somewhere in the mid-19th century, apparently inspired by the Colosseum in Rome, and holds a bit more than 10 000 people.
Bullfight arena on the right
Estación Norte | Even if you don't plan on taking the train, have a look at (and inside) Valencia's North station: again in a brilliant Art Nouveau style, it opened in 1917 and still functions as the city's main station.
Brilliant Art Nouveau style at the Estación Norte
Interesting fact
The orange is one of Valencia's most important symbols as it largely contributed to its economic power by being cultivated and exported.
If you look closely, you can find the orange hidden in the decorations in almost every corner of the city, amongst others on the facade of the Estación Norte.
End the last day of 3 days in Valencia with THE best paella at Masusa
Underneath the Ciutat Vella (on the south) is where you will find the hip quarter called 'Ruzafa'.
It's also here that you should look for something to eat as this area has a huge variety of cafés and restaurants, all serving specialities from Valencia in a new way.
Yes, we finished it all!
This is where we found the 'best paella in town'. That's what they advertise themselves, but that's also what locals apparently say.
And we can only confirm that it is indeed the best paella we had during our 3 days in Valencia! Yes, it beat the fancy and much more expensive one at Vuelve Carolina (though the chef of the latter might not like to hear this - don't tell him!)...
And this is a wrap on our little city-trip!
More city-guides ?
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Bottom-line of three (amazing) days in Valencia
Sebi and I got in a bit of discussion as he claims he slightly prefers Valencia to Barcelona now.
But he's totally wrong, of course. Nothing beats Barcelona. Nothing.
I do admit, though, Valencia has a very unique vibe and it did charm us with its architecture, the friendly people, good food and interesting corners.
Yes, I might even consider coming back to explore it more extensively.
But for now, let's just say it again: nothing beats Barcelona. Nothing.
I hope you had fun following our little tour and it inspires you to try the same one. If so, feel free to comment and don't forget to pin and share this post!
As ever
xx
Cyn
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