Little known paradise Tonga: the ‘Friendly Islands’
Two years ago, I had the immense chance to visit a charming little Kingdom somewhere in the Southern Pacific: Tonga island. Well actually, it's not just one island as it's an archipelago of in total 169 islands. Crazy, right?
Only 36 out of the 169 are inhabited and I only got to see the main island, Tongatapu. This one's the most populated (around 74.000 residents) and the one with the capital city Nuku'alofa.
Also the one with the residence of king Tupou VI. And basically all of the country's leaders, politicians, etc.
I spent roughly a week here and I must say: I fell in love with the island and its people! Tonga, as well as lots of other Polynesian islands, are high on our list to visit during our world-trip.
A world-trip that's currently changing a bit due to Corona. But that doesn't mean we're not going to do it. Just a bit later than planned.
We can't wait to hear the warm 'Malo e leilei' greeting from the residents of the 'Friendly Islands'.
Have fun reading about what to visit when on the beautiful Tongatapu island of the Kingdom of Tonga.
What to know before you go
The Tongans are a very proud nation with traditions that have been anchored in their culture for a long time. This makes them very authentic but you should know a thing or two in order to not inadvertently offend someone (read below).
They haven't lost their traditions even when the Europeans came to impose their Christian stuff. The latter did leave its mark though. I was surprised to see how devoted the Tongans are to God and the church.
Another particularity is that mass-tourism and cruise-ships come in no way near to the islands and you're going to get sucked in by the laid-back attitude of the islanders: nothing is urgent. If it can't be done today, it might be tomorrow. Or not. Whatever. We'll see later.
The food culture of Tonga has been greatly influenced by foreign visitors. Read on to find out why this was probably a bad development..
But before I get into this, here's a short overview of some practical stuff to know:
The Kingdom of Tonga in a nutshell
How to get there
There's only a limited number of possibilities to get to Tonga by plane.
We had a direct flight from Auckland to Tongatapu which is just under three hours.
Auckland and Sydney are the only ones outside of Polynesia to fly to Tonga. But other than those two cities you've got the possibility to fly from American Samoa, Fiji and Samoa.
There are six airports on six different islands in the Kingdom of Tonga, the two main ones being Fua'amotu on Tongatapu and Lupepau'u on Vava'u. The two other ones are domestic airports and only connect the islands.
When you leave the island, don't be surprised but people stay outside of the airport until the very last minute. You don't have to be there early. They'll call you when it's time to get on the plane.
Best time to visit
We went in July, for practical reasons.
But July does fall in the perfect season: from May to October. Those months are the driest and coolest months.
When I'm talking about 'cool', I mean you still get an average 25 °C every day.
From November to April, there are chances of really bad weather.
The Tongan islands have been victims of heavy storms or cyclones in the past that left their marks.
Lot of destruction still visible
Getting around
As we were traveling in an educational context (my ex-husband having been invited to teach music), we sort of had a private driver to get us around the island.
In general, though, I'd recommend to rent a car. There are taxis, too. But they don't have fixed prizes.
Then there are the busses: you just wave them down when you need one - which is handy. But that also means that they have no scheduled timetable and you won't know for sure if you'll have one passing by you location soon.
So yes, I'd say: car.
You'll have to get to the Ministry of Infrastructure to get a Tonga-valid driver's licence. Which apparently is easy to get.
Oh, and driving is on the LEFT!
Where to stay
We stayed at the charming Malau Lodge:
A beautiful little house with several rooms (we were traveling as two couples) with a host preparing breakfast with fresh delicious fruit every morning.
Bathroom is shared but I think if you travel as a group of friends or a family and have the house to yourself, this is more than fine.
Everything was clean and the Wifi surprisingly good (that's not always the case in Tonga).
Location-wise it was perfect as you're at walking distance of the main attractions of the capital Nuku'alofa.
Fresh coconut for breakfast at the Malau Lodge
Language
Tongan is the main one, a beautiful Polynesian language! I picked up a few words and sentences from our hosts but I must admit that I forgot most of it.
It is closely related to Hawaiian and Samoan amongst other Polynesian languages.
Apparently Americans LOVE the language as there are a lot of 'fak's and 'fakas' in it - haha.
The second spoken language is English so getting understood won't be a problem.
Food
This was actually rather suprising, I must admit.
I expected lots of fish and fresh fruit and vegetables from a Polynesian island but actually, it was not like on Easter Island for example.
Yes, when we went to the Oholei Beach Resort for a traditional Tongan show, there was indeed a giant buffet of Tongan/Polynesian food with lots of stuff marinated in coconut. And the typical suckling pig on a spit that they serve on all the big occasions.
But other than here, I found it hard to find freshly cooked meals (except at people's home). There was a lot of ready-made stuff with sauces from the freezer, etc. Wasn't the best food for my guts as I'm sensible for that kind of sugar-filled food.
It's not that it tasted bad or anything, it just wasn't all freshly made. Which made me wonder as they do have their own agriculture and grow things like bananas, coconuts (the sweetest ones I've ever tasted), coffee beans, sweet potato, etc. themselves.
And like I said: at people's homes, the food was fresh and all the things mentioned above were used. Just not in the restaurants we went to.
From what I understood, they eat quite a bit of ready-made meals when they have no guests. And they drink lots and lots of Coke.
And this is probably why people on the Tongan islands have one of the highest obesity rates in the world.
Seaweed and stuff marinated in coconut-milk
Original Tongan food
Feast at the Malau Lodge with suckling pig
Culture: religion, music and dress codes
Quick history
The Tongan islands have been inhabited for around 3000 years.
Their Polynesian neighbours Fiji and Samoa had a strong influence on their culture but, as everywhere in the 'new world', the Europeans came at some point and just had to poke their noses in everything. Especially with their missionaries in the 19th century.
The 17th and 18th centuries, the ones with all the European explorers with the likes of Cpt James Cook, pretty much left them in peace. But those missionaries... well: not.
Which means that now, Tonga has a very Christian tainted island life and there are not that many elements left of their ancient culture.
The ones that did survive are very interesting, though (read on to find out more).
Lots of Tongans nowadays live or work overseas and provide for their families who stayed on the island.
Religion
I've never seen more devoted Christians than the Tongans.
I'm actually not very fond of churches, even though I grew up as a Christian. So this was something rather unusual for me.
There are numerous churches and I'm not only talking buildings but several church affiliations as well.
I won't go into the details but let's just say: faith and Christianity are VERY present in the Tongan's lives. Sunday is sacred and everyone goes to church. And God is present in everything they say or do in the Kingdom of Tonga.
But then, on the other side, anything religious is much more colourful than it is in Europe. Just look at their cemeteries for example. I must admit I was slightly shocked by the ostentatious decorations of the tombs.
Then again, it is a Polynesian island and everything is colourful. Their whole culture is. Their soul is. Just like the flower lei you get offered as a visitor.
St Mary's cathedral in Nuku'alofa
One of the ostentatious cemeteries
Beautiful handmade flower lei
Music
This was the second of the things that stroke me the most: their musicality. Wow! I've never heard so many children and teenagers sing and play so beautifully!
Of course, we were immersed by their music as we were visiting as 'musical educators' - well, my ex-husband was. I was just there to enjoy the island life.
I did have the chance to play in one of the school orchestras on the big concert, though. I'll never forget those sweet girls from Queen Salote College - they were lovely!
As was their tutor, Koni, and his beautiful wife Jenny. Who is actually an American with a love for Polynesia where she was part of the Peace Corps. If I remember right, that's how they met - ain't that sweet?
Anyways, it was kind of frustrating to see that the school brass bands didn't always have proper material to play on. They have the music in their blood but they can't afford expensive instruments and gear.
Luckily there are people like Andrew and Bronwynne from Abi Music in New-Zealand - they're the ones making this trip possible and they are a big help to the music education of the islanders as they provide them with refurbished instruments and pass on their knowledge.
Again: every single time those kids started to play and sing their hymns, I was practically tearing up. No matter which school it was. The Tongans are born with music in their blood.
School Brass Band on Tongatapu
Tailulu College event center
No stand at all or makeshift things
Tailulu College school band
See the people from the audience dance in the back? This is what I'm talking about!
This is also something typically Tongan I guess: people get up and put some money in the clothes of the ones singing and dancing around.
Really fun to watch.
Traditions
One of the biggest shows they do to present their ancient traditions with music, dances and fire is probably the one in the Hina cave at Oholei Beach Resort.
The one with the giant buffet of Tongan food before getting into said cave to enjoy some really talented people.
Tongan traditions at the Hina Cave
Although it is beautiful to watch, I was less impressed by the shows for tourists then by the smaller gestures you find in the Tongans everyday-life. I'll give you some examples:
When attending a semi-formal event, such as a concert or even a formal meal at home where any high representative of the country or member of the Royal family is invited (yes, we did have a feast with the Tongan Minister of Education at the lodge), there is a dress code:
Men wear a 'tupenu', a cloth wrap skirt, with a 'ta'ovala', a traditional woven mat that's wrapped around the waist.
Women also wear the 'ta'ovala' above their skirt but they can also wear a 'kiekie', which is a girdle. The 'ta'ovala' is also worn at very formal events as a sign of respect whereas the 'kiekie' is a bit more laid back and modest, kind of.
And this is just one specific dress code. There is even one for when you have guests in your household. And a whole other one for funerals.
Also: respect regarding dignitaries and VIPs is very high. They are seated in the front of any event (see picture) and as an official visitor, you'd be sitting at the front as well.
Seating order at the big concert at Queen Salote College
Me wearing the KieKie our hosts lend me
Education
School education is of a very high standard on the main Tongan island.
Primary school is free and 90% of the secondary level education is provided by mission schools. We had the chance to visit several of them. All with their uniform and very own school band. And all so damn talented!
Although women have an important function in their culture, they rarely pursue a higher education overseas but instead focus on teaching or nursing training. At least that's the impression we got when talking to the girls at Queen Salote.
There are some very highly educated women in the government, though.
Oh, and the kids at the mission schools are super disciplined! They have to go running at 6 in the morning before the lessons start. And then they basically spend the whole day in school.
College children wearing their traditional uniform to go to school
The mission schools all have a quite similar education level. Except for Tupou College, a secondary boarding school for boys, located somewhere in the rainforest. They are considered to be a bit of the 'elite' of the island.
And man! That singing!! Goosebumps!!
Sightseeing on Tongatapu: highlights
Mapu 'A Vaea Blowholes
This is one of Tonga's main highlights on Tongatapu island, near the village of Houma. 'Vaea' is actually the name of a prominent family of the same village.
The rock on that reef is of volcanic nature, very porous and with lots of holes and channels. When the waves crash into them, the pressure blows the water out and makes it look like a geyser erupting.
You can drive to the blowholes and park your car right in front of them. There are picnic-benches along the shore and it's quite nice to sit there and sip a coconut while enjoying the show.
The calm before breaking loose
Beautiful nature show
Captain Cook landing site
Okay, this was not the most beautiful spot, I admit.
It's just quiet creek with a commemorative plaque stating that this is where Captain James Cook (the great discoverer of Polynesia and many other parts of the world - google him, it's fascinating) came ashore in 1777.
Queen Elisabeth II stopped by for a quick visit in 1970 to remember this historical moment.
But the islanders insisted on showing it as it has a lot of value for their history - quite understandable.
Not so much to see here but very symbolic
The three-headed coconut
So cute! This is literally what you get: a coconut tree with three heads. And it has its own sign. You know, the tourist-signs that mark official sightseeing-spots.
I have never seen a three-headed coconut, true. But yeah..
I wonder how long this is going to survive, though.
A coconut-tree with three heads
Ha 'amonga 'a Maui Trilithon
To explain: a trilithon is a structure consisting of two big vertical stones supporting one even bigger horizontally displaced on top of it.
It's the kind of megalithic structure you find all over the world, the most famous example being Stonehenge. This one's a bit different, though, as the top stone is sunken down in a slit.
There are two possibilities for its origins: either the king Tuʻi Tonga Tuʻitātui had it built in the 13th century as a gateway to his throne, or it was demi-god Maui who wanted an astronomical observatory in the 6th century.
Cause yeah, the stones are said to be too heavy to be carried by any human.
I'll let you guess which one is more plausible.
Not far from the structure is one big stone sitting upright. That's supposed to be the king's throne. Also called 'stone to lean against' ('esi maka faakinanga').
The whole area is quite beautiful! From the throne, there are two pathways going down up to the sea (see on the map) and you get beautiful views.
The trilithon in the park
The 'throne'
Walking down the path you get to this beautiful spot
Nukuleka
This is actually not a known tourist-spot on Tongatapu as there is pretty much nothing to see.
But we went anyway as this is where archaeologist Dave Burley conducted excavations and I wanted to see the site.
It's a tiny fishing village where he found evidence that this spot might be the 'cradle of Polynesia'. Up until recently, this had always been Samoa's 'thing'.
But Burley found Lapita pottery: the Lapita were prehistoric Pacific Ocean people considered to be the ancestors of Polynesia (including Easter Island), Micronesia and Melanesia.
And the pottery here could be dated further back than anything ever found on Samoa.
Again: there's not much to see here except for the village. But if you ask for it, the villagers are more than happy (and proud) to show you a few ceramics they picked up during the dig. That is, if you're interested in archaeology like I am.
And if you're REALLY interested, I can refer some published papers around this one and other digs in Polynesia. Dave Burley was so kind to send me publications and references when I contacted him.
Me looking at some ceramics
The fishing village of Nukuleka. And pigs.
The fishing pigs
Okay, this is not considered an official tourist-highlight either. But the thought of fishing pigs was so funny, we desperately wanted to see them in action.
Sometimes, when the tide is low, pigs are indeed fishing for small fish, crabs and mussels. I mean: how cool is that?
We saw lots of pigs. Everywhere. Literally.
So yes, in the water too!
Pig in Nuku'alofa
Pig in Nukuleka
Pig somewhere at the beach
The most beautiful beaches
Ha'atafu Beach
This is the most western point of the island.
It's the ideal spot for a magnificent sunset! Get yourself some coconuts and just enjoy!
If you can't get them yourself, ask one of the boys lingering around. Don't forget to pay them a little something. It looks so easy to get up that tree to fetch some coconuts but I tried it and it's damn hard!!
And it didn't help that I still had a bit of a fear of heights back then.. might go better now that I'm over that - haha.
Coconut fetcher
Look at that technique!
Romantic sunset at Ha'atafu beach
Magnificent sunset colours
Pangaimotu
This tiny island is just a short 10 min boat trip off to the north of Tongatapu island. It's protected as a national marine reserve and has only a few buildings on it (the Big Mama Yacht Club and a small resort).
You come here to just relax, have a refreshing drink and swim or snorkel around a bit. Or to jump down a wreck of an upturned ship - the locals love to do this.
It's a bit creepy to swim around that thing and I was afraid to cut myself on the sharp, rusty edges. But it's perfect for beautiful pictures.
Walking along the shore of Pangaimotu island has a very calming effect. It feels like paradise. Even more than Tongatapu island.
The famous shipwreck at the Pangaimotu island
Chillin' at the bar
That view though!
Paradise..
Look at that water!
And those feet!
Fua'amtu Beach
Sweet, sweet coconut!
Sitting here, enjoying the breeze and the salty air. All the while drinking and eating the sweetest coconuts ever!
It doesn't get better than this, does it?
This beach is located on the south-east tip of Tongatapu island. And it's perfect for relaxing and swimming, even with kids as a rock reef prevents you from getting further into the see.
Soooooo tasty!
Island sunsets are the best!
And this is about it! Obviously, there's a lot more going on in the whole kingdom.
Vava'u and Ha'apai are supposed to be magnificent too. And far less crowded. Although I wouldn't consider Tongatapu island 'crowded'.
So yes, those two islands are definitely on our list as well.
Anyways, I hope you enjoyed this short introduction to the Kingdom of Tonga and it inspires you to visit this tiny Polynesian island.
James Cook called the Kingdom the 'Friendly Islands' and it's easily understandable why: they definitely are the most friendly and super affectionate people you could meet, welcoming every stranger with open arms.
Don't hesitate to share, comment and pin this article for your next Polynesian adventures!
xx
Cyn
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