Inside of Petra: A Complete Guide To The Lost City

Have you ever wondered what is inside of Petra, the mesmerising 'Lost City'?

If, like me, you have watched 'Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade' at least a dozen times, you certainly have. I wasn't even an archaeologist myself back then and I was already sold!

Understandably, when we decided (rather spontaneously) to go backpacking in Jordan, Petra was a top priority. 

In the era of Google, Wikipedia and such, I knew very well that there was no boobytrapped adventure-course leading to the Holy Grail guarded by a Knight Templar inside of 'Al Khazneh' or the 'Treasury'.

But I couldn't have imagined what we actually experienced when we went inside of the insanely fascinating Petra either.

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What is Petra and why is it famous?

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We've seen pretty unbelievable places during our several road trips in Europe such as the outer-worldly Meteora Monasteries in Greece or the Sassi di Matera in Italy.

We visited another world wonder while experiencing the best things to do in and around Cusco. We had an amazing experience in the National Park Tortuguero of Costa Rica.

And exploring the inside of 'the Lost City' of Petra was yet again a truly unforgettable event.

The name 'Petra'

The Greek word 'Petra' means 'rock'. But that's not what the Nabateans, the ancient Nomad Arab people who built this city called it. 

While we don't know for sure what they originally named the site, it is generally assumed that it was something like 'reqem', 'reqmu' or 'raqmu', literally meaning 'the red'. It probably leaned on the colour of the reddish sandstone Petra has been built into. 

The history of Petra

The area surrounding the actual city has been inhabited for more than 9000 years. 

Yes. 9000 years. There are traces of occupation reaching back as far as 7000 BC.

The actual city of Petra, built by the Nabateans as capital of their kingdom, has likely been built during the 3rd century BC, with its most flourishing period in the 1st century AD.

Nabateans and the trading business

These ancient Arab people were incredibly smart. They settled in an area that had a strategic position for the trading business of incense. 

They knew very well how to live in this arid world by collecting rainwater, finding sources and even making agriculture possible. 

The Nabateans created a sort of oasis, controlling the still occurring flash floods by the means of cisterns, canals and dams.

This is how they not only built their wealth but were also able to defend it for a long time.

Until the Romans defeated them later.

But before that, during that prosperous time, they hewed their imposing monumental tombs into the red sandstone. Each tomb reflected the owner's status by its own set of symbols, all linked to 'rising up towards heavens'. 

You could easily spend hours identifying the different patterns like stairs and pyramids going up to the skies, or rectangular-shaped holes to fit diverse deities. 

Funny thing about the latter: everyone was free to have his or her own family of Gods. Several religions were mixed at some point and mutual influences are visible everywhere. 

The end of a flourishing city

At its peak, Petra had about 20.000 residents and, at first, the Romans couldn't harm them much. But by the beginning of the 2nd century, the Romans had managed to do so anyway.

They renamed it 'Arabia Petraea' - hence its current name - and dominated the trade business by creating important sea routes which ultimately led to the decline of the city of Petra.

A few earthquakes during the following centuries contributed to the abandonment of the city as such.

The Lost City

Petra continued to have a certain importance as a bishopric until the 7th century. It was also briefly used to built a fortress during the crusaders phase in the 12th century.

But then it all stopped.

And Petra was kind of forgotten until its rediscovery by a Swiss traveller named Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. This is why Petra is nowadays is still referred to as 'the Lost City'.

Now ain't that quaint?

A city and a gigantic burial site

Temples, gardens, residences, a theatre, palaces, etc. 

Everything a proper city would need, was there.

But that's not what makes Petra exceptional. It's the fact that literally thousand mausoleums and tombs were hewn into the rock, each one grander than the other.

Death was a very important part of their daily lives, hence the town centre was surrounded by and even built on or along a series of tombs.

How about that? Must have been a strange feeling to know that the deaths were so close...

Rise to fame

After being rediscovered in the 19th century, the site of Petra certainly attracted some visitors. These were mostly researchers and archaeologists, though. Or, adventurous travellers that went beyond the typical destinations.

There wasn't a real tourist boom until 1985 when Petra got named UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

But the big fame came a few years later, when Steven Spielberg chose the site as a set for one of the most iconic scenes in the 'Indiana Jones' series: the discovery of the Holy Grail.

The movie came out in 1989 and 'Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade' was already one of my favourite movies ever, long before I became an archaeologist myself (no, I didn't see it when it came out, I was still a bit too young).

If you haven't seen it yet, please do find and watch it. It's a classic.

And it's actually what really put Petra on the map.

Tourism as an economic boost

Relocating the Bedouins

Visitor numbers continuously increased after the movie's tremendous success! 

So much that the Jordanian government decided to relocate the Bedouins still living in Petra's tombs and caves. They had a whole village built for the Nomads outside of the site's perimeter. 

It's the same as with the Bedouin village in Wadi Rum, though: a lot of them Nomads still prefer their goat-hair-tent to cold and charmless concrete. They own a house but won't live in it.

Nevertheless, the Bedouins of Petra continued to do what their forefathers had done for ages: trading and bargaining.

But now with tourists instead of merchant caravans.

Souvenirs and rip-off

There are at least 50 little stalls where the Bedouins sell all kinds of souvenirs, going from colourful ceramics with Nabatean patterns over locally made cloth keffiyehs to supposedly 'antique' items.

Though we found little white boxes that stated 'made in China' when we went early in the morning one day, before anyone on site was even awake...

They will also try to sell you 'ancient Roman and Nabatean money' but don't fall for it... it's mostly just fake ones  anyway (they're very skilled metal workers) or it's obviously a totally illegal practice IF they happen to be authentic and you could get in serious trouble at the aiport.

Like with all the merchants we met during our backpacking trip in Jordan, you will have to constantly beat down the price. They will always - really: ALWAYS - try to rip you off. It's their nature. Especially if you're non-Arabic.

Also, Petra isn't the only place that boosts the economical situation of the country. There are other particularly quaint places such as the Wadi Rum that helped the country rise to a certain fame. Yes, Hollywood lent a helping hand here as well.

Read also | Wadi Rum Camp Adventure: all you need to know

In Covid19-times

We were lucky enough to travel during this damned pandemic (that is still going on at the time of writing this article). All the while respecting each country's safety measures, of course!

I say lucky because, despite not having been able to pursue our original world trip plan, we went to destinations we never had in mind before. 

Or, like in this case, we visited bucket-list sites that probably would have been a lot less enjoyable with dense crowds of people around us.

In 2019, Petra had a record number of 1.135 million visitors during the year - a number so high, it's hard to imagine. And that's was only Petra. Not even the whole country!

But in 2020, the whole year registered barely a few thousand. And most of them weren't even foreigners like us but locals.

You can imagine what this means for Jordanians and especially the Bedouins that depend so much from the tourists. They struggle to survive.

More than a year later

As Ahmad, one merchant close to the Royal Tombs (see picture above), who invited us for tea every time we passed by, told us:

"Bedouins have always been good in the trading business." 

The money they made, they spent it rather quickly as they knew there would be more to come anyway. "The past ten years, I sometimes wished for one day with less tourists so that I could have a break. I will never wish for anything like this ever again."

It used to be like: "If the first two didn't buy what they were looking at, the next one did - I didn't even mind giving them stuff for free."

Ahmad told us that they actually never learned to make any real savings, even when the pandemic started, thinking that this crisis would be over soon.

It's been more than a year now. More than a year without any tourists buying from them.

It's hard.

But for now, let's move on to the practical things, in the hope that the travel business will resume soon.

Practical stuff to know before heading inside of Petra

How to get to Petra

Well, you obviously have to get to Jordan first (seems about right).

There are people visiting Petra as a full-day excursion coming from Israel. But, just as it is with cruise-tourists spending two days in Aqaba and squeezing in Petra during that trip, it's actually not a good idea.

You will easily understand why you most definitely want to schedule a few days in Petra if you continue reading.

Here are a few options to consider:

From Amman to Petra

By bus | The JETT, the 'Jordan Express Tourist Transportation', will get you to Petra in about 3h30.

By car | Depending on the route: if you take the faster Desert Highway (route 15), you will need approximately 3h00. For the more scenic King's Highway (route 35), add another hour.

By taxi | Probably the most comfortable but also the least economic way, count about 85 JD (99 € / 120 US $) one way.

From Aqaba to Petra

By bus | Here again, the JETT is scheduled daily going from Aqaba to Petra, which will cost about 12 JD (14 € / 17 US $) one way.

By car | Approximately 2h17 from Aqaba to Petra, partly using Desert and King's Highway

By taxi | Most taxis ask for 50 JD (58,50 € / 70,50 US $) one way from Aqaba to Petra

From Wadi Rum to Petra

By bus | The JETT doesn't operate here but there is a bus leaving at Wadi Rum at 9 am every day to get to Petra. The other way round, it leaves at 7 am. The cost is more or less 7 JD (8 € / 10 US $) one way.

By car | Again using Desert and King's Highway, you will need 2h15 to do Wadi Rum to Petra

By taxi | It's about 40 JD (47 € / 56,50 US $) one way but beware: it's easier to find taxis in Wadi Nusa (Petra) to get you to Wadi Rum than the other way round...

Where to stay

So you can't exactly stay inside of Petra - but I think you got that, right?

Wadi Musa is actually the town right at the entrance of fabulous Petra. There is a huge array of hotels in that city and it depends greatly on your budget in which part you might be located.

Make sure to research this beforehand as it will greatly influence your times of visit to Petra: the closer your hotel, the easier it will be to rise up early in the morning and be amongst the very first visitors when the site opens at 6 am.

We stayed at the La Maison Hotel, very close to Petra's main entrance. It took us barely 5 minutes by foot to the Visitor Centre. The rooms were quite small but very comfortable (the bed!) and the service was great. The hotel is located right behind the huge Mövenpick-Hotel and is a bit hidden from sight. 

Compared to other hotel-complexes and resorts that lie close to the site, this one has a fairly reasonable price.

If you only want to do a day-trip (which, again, we don't recommend), it is better to look for a place to stay in Aqaba instead of Amman. 

Entrance fees for Petra (and Little Petra)

Consider getting the Jordan Pass for your Jordan-trip in general.

That's a 'digital pass' you can buy online before getting into the country (you could print it out but it's not necessary - think of the environment 🙂 ). 

It works with a handy QR-code on your phone and grants access to over 40 attractions in the whole country, including major sites like Petra, Jerash and the Wadi Rum reserve.

The pass also includes the entry visa to Jordan that would be 40 JD (48 € / 57 US$) alone. But in order to get that, your minimum stay in Jordan should be three nights.

When looking at the different options for your Jordan Pass, you will have to decide beforehand how many days you will want to spend in Petra.

The prices are the following:

If you don't plan on visiting other sites, here are the entry fees for Petra alone:

Little Petra, as explained down below, doesn't have an entrance fee.

Best time for visiting Petra: seasonal and daily

For visiting Jordan in general, the best season would be spring-time between March and May: The weather is already quite sunny without being too hot or rainy. 

But for Petra specifically, you might want to avoid April, October and November as these are the months with the highest visitor numbers.

No matter when you go, force yourself to get up before sunrise. As I previously said, the site opens at 6 am and that's the absolute best time to visit.

Early in the morning, the sun isn't burning hot, which is ideal for the treks that require a bit more physical strength and the visitor afflux starts around 9 am with day-trip and cruise tourists flocking in.

A few additional things to know about Petra

Are there toilets inside of Petra?

There actually are.

They are marked on the map you can get at the Visitor Centre and located near every major highlight. 

However, they are not always open and you sure won't find any on the longer treks. You will most likely have to look for a quiet spot in nature - but remember to not leave your paper tissues!

To me as someone with a chronic intestinal disease, to know that there are toilets inside of Petra was pretty crucial. You never know when you might need one.

About safety in Petra

Theft and petty crime

Compared to other tourist attractions or cities (read about how we got mugged at gunpoint in Costa Rica) Petra is actually pretty safe.

The only people inside of Petra are the Bedouins and they are very well aware of the importance of their visitors. We haven't heard any warnings whatsoever regarding theft.

The Bedouins do like to push up their prices for souvenirs, like I said earlier. But that's about the only thing where we'd advise you to be on your guards.

Heatstrokes and dehydration

The real danger is the sun: the only shadow you might find, is when you visit early in the morning or inside the caves. During the day, the sun can be blazing hot - even in winter - and I would suggest you take something to cover your head to prevent heatstrokes.

We actually brought our keffiyehs which are ideal to protect you, being lightweight and all that. Oh, and they just look cool. Don't be afraid to offend the Bedouins by wearing that, they actually think it's a sign of respect when tourists wear their traditional headscarf.

Remember to drink throughout the day! You might overlook the fact that you are doing quite a few kilometres while marvelling at the glorious facades. You can easily buy drinks literally every 50 meters but here again: the prices are three times what you would pay in a supermarket in the city.

What to wear inside of Petra?

When travelling around in a Muslim country like Jordan, you will sometimes be asked to dress in a decent way. Especially when entering religious buildings.

This is not really the case in Petra as it's not considered a religious site. There is thus no need for hiding your shoulders and legs.

However, you might want to consider covering at least your head because - remember? - the sun will beat you.

What to visit inside of Petra

Guide or no guide?

After getting to (or being dropped off by your bus/shuttle/taxi at) Petra's Visitor Centre in Wadi Musa and getting your ticket, you will probably be welcomed by several guides offering their services before even setting foot inside of Petra.

If you did consider getting a guide anyway, you can choose one right there. They are licensed to guide you but they work at fixed prices. We paid 50 JD (58 € / 70,50 US $) for the two of us to do the main trail and it took about 3 hours.

There are several Bedouins inside of Petra offering the same but the quality might not be the highest level - they tend to exaggerate historical facts sometimes.

On the other hand, the Bedouins can take you to places off the main trails and the prices are negotiable unlike for those waiting at the Visitor Centre.

Our guide Nael was a very friendly 50+ guy who used to be a teacher. We got a lot of information for our money and he had a very entertaining way of telling Petra's story.

He even added some drama at some point that literally gave us goosebumps!

The main trail and the 'Treasury'

Arriving at Petra you will always start at the Visitor Centre, following the trail that leads down a manmade path to the entrance of the breath-taking Siq, the 1.2 km long natural canyon formed by flash floods throughout time. 

This gorge was precisely the reason the Nabateans were so powerful because they learned how to use the floods to channel the water by building dams and such.

Along the way, you will see some smaller carved tombs, spaces made for God-worshipping and even some low reliefs hewn into the sandstone-walls, depicting camels and caravans.

The mythical and mystical 'Treasury'

The main trail is indisputably the most popular route as it leads from the Visitor Centre through the famous Siq and straight to the most famous tomb of all: 'Al Khazneh' or the 'Treasury'.

This temple's facade is one of the most beautiful ones, with very elaborated decorations combining Greek and Roman elements.

It is believed to have served as the mausoleum of king Aretas IV who ruled during the 1st century AD. 

Al Khazneh is the most impressive sight when you first come out of the canyon. I literally had goosebumps at the very first glimpse. And yes, also conditioned by my memories of Indiana Jones, the moment they arrive at the final resting place of the Holy Grail.

The name 'the treasury' stems from the fact that the Bedouins believed there was a treasure hidden in the urn depicted on top of the temple-facade. You can still see the impact of bullets from when they tried to 'shoot open' the urn. 

Turns out: that urn is just plain sandstone.

So what IS inside the Treasury?

Nothing, really.

All of the monumental tombs in Petra actually have one to three funeral chambers inside and these have logically been emptied a long time ago. 

They most likely contained the sarcophagus of the deceased and presumably his close relatives, as well as things they could use in the afterlife and everything needed for festive meals to celebrate death.

Some of them have a 'biclinium' or 'triclinium', a formal dining room with couches for two or three people (hence the names), also built into the sandstone.

During the 19th century, nomadic Bedouins used these caves as living space. Big black smoke stains from the fires they made inside are still visible on the ceilings.

What comes after the Treasury?

So much! Trust me!

The thing is, the 'Treasury' is undeniably the most iconic building. But that means that a lot of tours, especially day-trips, stop at this point. People think: "Oh, okay, I've seen it" and leave.

But there is so much more! 

The main trail alone will lead you past the Treasury to a whole world of monumental tombs carved into the sandstone, past what is called the 'street of facades'.

You will also see a pretty impressive Roman looking theatre with tiers, also entirely hewn into the hillside. This was built after the tombs you see around as it was partly cut into several of them.

The 'Royal tombs' 

Going a bit further, you will have the opportunity to visit the 'Royal tombs' by climbing up the stairs to the right of the main trail: a series of stunning and huge mausoleums carved into the 'Jebel Al Khubtha', the massif on the right.

To get there, you just have to follow the steps, past dozens of Bedouin-shops (the biggest one is Ahmad's, the friendly guy I told you about earlier).

They are called 'royal' though it isn't clear whether they were indeed built for kings. It does seem that this part of the Nabatean city of Petra was reserved for a higher class.

Petra's City Centre

Going back down to the main trail, it will lead you to what is called the 'Petra Pool and Garden Complex' on the left side, which is thought to have indeed been an elaborate garden with a pavilion and even a swimming pool.

On the right side of the main trail, climbing up a bit, you can visit remains of a large Byzantine church with very well-preserved mosaics.

The 'Qasr al-Bint' ('the daughter's palace'), one of the best preserved buildings inside of Petra, is usually where the guided main trail ends when you chose the 'basic' one.

Then you can either turn around and follow the same trail back or opt for one of the other trails that start from here to either the 'Monastery', the 'Treasury viewpoint' or the 'High Place of Sacrifices' (read on to know more about them).

Married to a Bedouin

Along the main trail, you can visit one of the 'better' shops inside of Petra: Marguerite Van Geldermalsen is a nurse originally from New Zealand who visited Petra in the 1970s, fell in love with one of the Bedouins and decided to live with him in his cave. 

They raised three children and today she still owns one of the shops selling silver jewellery in a stall across from the cave she originally lived in.

She got kind of famous by publishing her story in the book 'Married to a Bedouin'.

Although she wasn't there when we went, if you're into this kind of stories, definitely go check it out and have a chat with her. She is said to be a very sweet person.

The route to 'Ad Deir' or the 'Monastery'

The second most popular trail people do when visiting Petra.

The animals inside of Petra

Several guides will want to take you this specific route as it covers all the main highlights of the site: The 'Treasury', the theatre, the 'Royal Tombs' and the 'Monastery'.

If you think you're running out of time or don't feel fit enough, dozens of Bedouins will be waiting for you at every corner with their donkeys, camels and horses to bring you to the 'Monastery'. 

While we are usually not very fond (at all) of using animals as means of transportation, we were also the only tourists inside of Petra. And we made the mistake of using that innocent phrase "maybe later" when a young Bedouin asked if we wanted to get to the Monastery on his donkeys.

He followed us during our whole tour with the guide. Three hours. In the sun. Stopping every time we were stopping.

We naturally felt so bad, we accepted his offer to get us up.

Though we learned afterwards that PETA actually had lead actions against Petra because of the bad way the animals were treated. In response to that, a horse clinic was opened and the Bedouins sensitised in things like animal well-being. So I guess things are indeed better now, though you can never be sure.

Steep climb

If you do decline the offer (which honestly you should), be mindful that you will do the main trail first, walking all the way down to Qasr Al Bint (about 4 km), then following the new route on the right crossing a little bridge.

From this point, it is all uphill: a serious climb with lots of stairs. With dozens of Bedouin stalls along the way to sell tea and the same souvenirs as those you will find everywhere in the whole country.

But don't you ever use the words 'maybe' or 'later' when declining their offer! They will hold you accountable, saying things like "you promised you would have a look on the way back down" and "I've been waiting for you, I recognise you". 

The second most elaborate facade in Petra: the 'Monastery'

Other than being the second most beautiful and awe-inspiring building inside of Petra, it's also the second most visited one, after the 'Treasury'.

Even if you are visiting Petra as a day-trip, try to get to this point nonethelss. Some even advise to head straight for the 'Monastery' when entering Petra and then visit everything else on the way back to the Visitor Centre.

That is actually quite a good idea because the longer you wait before the steep climb, the more tired you will get.

This place is called the 'Monastery' because the colossal chambers and several other structures around that suggest that it was indeed used for religious gatherings. It was also repurposed as a church during the Byzantine era and the Bedouins gave it that name because of to the crosses carved into the back wall.

In front of the 'Monastery', a strategically located restaurant offers (overpriced) beverages and small plates to the exhausted visitors - so smart, ey?

The seating area looking straight onto the glorious facade is pretty comfortable, though.

Behind said restaurant, you can climb further to see the iconic building from an even higher point. The views on the surrounding valley are also spectacular.

The best viewpoint: 'Al Khubtha' trail

The best time for the 'Al Khubtha' trail

This trail is best done early in the morning. And with 'early in the morning', I mean before sunrise.

The reasons for that are threefold:

1. Loads and loads of stairs to climb and after 11 am, these stairs are in the blazing sun.
2. It's the most popular viewpoint inside of Petra so you can expect quite a lot of people using this particular trail. The later you go, the higher the chances of crowds.
3. If you manage to make it to the top of the massif right before sunrise, you will see the sun rays slowly making their way up that fabulous temple facade of the 'Treasury'. It's a spectacular sight.

The 'Al Khubtha' trail starts at the point where you access the 'Royal tombs'. 

Only this time, you walk past the latter and start climbing up quite a lot of stairs until you get to a plateau with ruins of what was once a crusader castle where you might think you're lost. 

Fear not, there will certainly be Bedouins to show you the right direction. We were alone due to travelling during a pandemic, but there were lots of little cairns left by other hikers to reorientate us. 

View on the 'Treasury': goals

Once you arrive at the viewpoint, you will now kindly be pushed into buying something to drink in order to get the best picture.

The Bedouins installed a tent where you have to pass through to get to the renowned spot.

Even though this might sound like malpractice, it's actually not bad at all: the view on the 'Treasury' is unbelievable and it is indeed even more enjoyable with a freshly brewed tea.

Beware, though: it's 2 JD (2,30 € / 2,80 US $) a drink. Quite pricy for Jordan.

The 'High Place of Sacrifice' trail

Finding your way

We did this hike on the same day we went on the 'Al Khubtha' trail. Maybe not the best idea because they're both quite hard but ultimately, it was alright as we really took our time.

This trail has two starting points, depending on what direction you want to take it. You can either start 

1.  On the left of the theatre
2.  Behind the 'Qasr al Bint'.

From both, it's not always easy to stay on track due to the lack of signs. Bedouins will always be friendly enough to point the direction but they will also try to sell you their guiding services (or their donkeys, for that matter). 

The trail on itself is rather easy for the first part, mostly flat. But then you start to climb again. It's less strenuous than the 'Al Khubtha', though, because the stairs are divided by several platforms where you walk on flatter ground for a while. 

It feels easier because of these breaks.

Worth the hike?

Absolutely!

Before or after getting to the High Place of Sacrifie - depending on what side you start the trail - you will have the opportunity to visit particular spots like the 'tomb of the Roman Soldier', the 'Garden Triclinium' with its hydraulic system, the 'Lion Fountain', and more.

The 'High Place of Sacrifice'

Just like the name indicates, the High Place of Sacrifice was just that: a place for ceremonial gatherings with sacrifices.

Petra has several places of that kind but this is the best preserved and known one.

There's not that much to see up here except for a platform, a few decorative obelisks and a ceremonial font but you will still be in awe when arriving up there - trust me.

The views from up top on practically the whole site of Petra including the surrounding valley, the Bedouin village and the city of Wadi Musa are mind-blowing.

Of course - oh, the surprise! - there's a Bedouin tent awaiting you with tea and souvenirs for 'the best view in Petra'.

Going back was adventurous

We actually combined this hike with the 'Al Madras' trail. We didn't plan on doing so but once we arrived at the High Place of Sacrifice, we wanted to find the second viewpoint looking down onto the 'Treasury' that used to be accessible from up here.

Unfortunately, due to a deadly accident in 2018, that spot had been closed and so the access prohibited. Because we were already this far, we decided to follow the 'Al Madras' trail that is actually one they normally do by horse to get back to the entrance of the Siq.

That journey took a bit longer than expected but the sights were incredible.

Additional hikes inside of Petra

These are the most popular trails because they lead to the most impressive buildings, tombs and viewpoints.

If you are interested in exploring others, there are a few more available that you can read about on the official Visit Petra site.

Or you could just have one of the Bedouins guide you to places off the usual tourist tracks.

Little Petra and whether it's worth the detour

To be honest, when you start with the mighty Petra before having a look at the 'little sister', Little Petra can be quite disappointing.

'Little' is an understatement. Compared to the main site, it's actually tiny.

That being said, it does have a few advantages and if you have the time, you should consider visiting Little Petra first and then travel to the big site from here.

What is Little Petra anyway?

Little Petra is generally assumed to having been a 'suburb' for Petra and a very important rest area for caravans on the trade route from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea.

Here again, a little canyon called the 'Siq Al Barid' served as an entrance that protected the place.

The caves here were mostly built for religious purposes and as dining rooms. 

One of these rooms is quite exceptional in that it is one of the only ones in the whole valley where the frescoes on the walls actually survived, showing very exquisite paintings of grapes, birds and putti dating from the 1st century AD. 

Little Petra's particularities

Advantage n° 1:

It's free. You don't have to pay an entrance fee so why not check it out?

Advantage n°2:

It's a lot less touristy, therefore quieter, hence perfect for getting a first impression of these caves hewn into the rock (if you decide to do this before the big one).

Advantage n°3:

There is a very interesting and particular trail - one we unfortunately didn't know about before heading to Jordan -  that will lead you from Little Petra to the backside of the 'Monastery' on the main site.

It's apparently a quite strenuous hike and it is generally recommended to get a Bedouin to guide you (even in Little Petra, there are enough of them waiting to offer their services) but we read a lot of good things about it.

How many days should you spend inside of Petra?

If you've read this far, you will have understood by now that one day simply isn't enough to explore this intriguing place.

In my honest opinion: two days is the minimum, three days is best.

You could easily spend an entire week here, especially if you're an avid hiker and fond of archaeology.

But we know ourselves that time isn't always your friend when travelling around so I'd stick to the three days. Read below for the order we did during our three days inside of Petra.

If you don't want to bother with making all the detailed planning yourself and really only want to visit one day (do you really??), check out this full-day tour from Amman with excellent ratings. 

Three-days itinerary for visiting Petra

Day 1 - Take it all in

Do the main trail, maybe with a licensed guide to get all the serious historical facts you'll need for a better understanding of the site and don't miss the 'Royal Tombs'.

Have the guide give you suggestions on which trails are best done when - he might have other ideas than what we ended up doing.

If you're feeling courageous enough, continue straight toward the 'Monastery' after doing the main trail.

Day 2 - The viewpoints

Get there early - best before sunrise.

We were a little too late as the sun was already up before we got to the 'Royal Tombs'.

Do the 'Al Khubtha' trail to get to the viewpoint above the 'Treasury'. Don't do this one in the afternoon!

Have some lunch and tea at one of the restaurants in the valley and wait until the sun is slightly lower, around 3 pm.

That's when you can start to hike all the way up to the 'High Place of Sacrifices', it won't be as hot as around noon.

From here, you could go back to the entrance of the Siq following the 'Al Madras' trail. We arrived at the Siq when the sun was already going down but from here it's not that far anymore to reach Wadi Musa where you will most likely be staying.

Day 3 - Aaron's Tomb and Little Petra

Check out the highlights that are a bit further away like Little Petra and Aaron's tomb.

Little Petra is about 10 km from the Visitor Centre and you can easily reach it by car. Remember that if you're up for another strenuous yet fantastic hike, you can always get to the back of the 'Monastery' in Petra from here.

'Aaron's tomb', as the name suggests, is supposed to be the burial place of Moses' brother. While the tomb itself really isn't that special, it's located on 'Mount Hor' which offers breath-taking views all over the valley.

To reach it, you follow the 'Jebel Haroun' trail for about 5 km starting at the Visitor Centre (about 1 km from Qasr' al Bint).

Petra by night

Staying in Petra for more than one or two days gives you the opportunity to assist a very unique event: Petra by night.

Here's the downside of travelling during a pandemic: due to the lack of tourists, 'Petra by night' wasn't operating as they need at least 40 workmen to light up the 1500 candles. And that's just not worth the trouble for a handful of tourists.

In non-Covid times, the show takes place every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 8.30 pm to 10.30 pm.

A guide will pick you up at the Visitor Centre and bring you back after the event.

The entrance fee is 17 JD (20 € / 24 US $) per person - children under the age of 10 don't pay - and is unfortunately not included in the Jordan Pass. You also need to already have a valid day-ticket.

Reserving your spot in advance is not possible. However, the number of tickets sold is unlimited, so that won't be a problem.

Visiting the inside of Petra - worth the trip?

In one word: totally!

In a few more words: breath-taking views, fascinating history, insanely artistic craftsmanship, friendly Bedouins and rewarding hikes. What is there not to like?

Given that archaeologists say that, so far, only 10 to 15 % of Petra have been excavated, I absolutely want to get back someday, in the hope they have done even more research until then.

We also want to enjoy the magical Petra by night experience.

Add to that several other sites we couldn't visit in Jordan due to a lack of time, there is still so much to explore.

But Petra was one of the absolute highlights of our whole world trip, I can guarantee.

I hope you had fun reliving our experience inside of Petra and if you did, feel free to comment, pin and share this post for others to see.

As ever

xx

Cyn

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